...Car got broken into last night and the glass beside the rear driver side window was busted..I went to the junkyard and found one for 45 bucks!! Now I need detailed intructions on how to install this glass...local window repair place wants 120 bucks for replacement charge...help!!!

91 940 SE

Hi xax, Spook is right when he says practice on a junker. The window is enc ased with a rubber seal that is a mother to put back in. 45 dollars sounds high, I bet a new one is that much. The biggest trick is to remove all the window guts and trim pieces, drill the little pop rivet 1/8 inch, spray the area down with some slippery soap and work the rubber out. Make sure every bit of glass is out of the glass chanel, very impotant. The window and rubber need to be installed as one. I tried all kinds of ways to get the window in with the back edge of the rubber seal in place, it just won't go. I checked my reciepts and I got the whole door for 34.00, so like I said your paying for the labor. The next hardest thing is the outside molding. It is not easy to get it to fit on the right ouside edge unless the rubber seal is perfect. Hope this helps. Pauli

What's the easiest way to move the black bar far enough so i could lside the glass panel into place?

You have to take it out, that it is why you need to drill the rivet. Pauli

..okay..so do I need to take the window out too to take the bar off??

Yes, Like I said you need to remove the big window, its regulator, the window rub strips, the channels, the top rubber molding on the outside edge just past the rivet, the outside chrome or black molding, then spray the rubber with a soapy solution to make removal easier. The window has been in the door over 10 years. Once you get the rubber window molding out, clean it and make sure no glass is in the groove where the window sits. Install the rubber molding around the glass and use soapy solution to slide the panel in place, making sure the upper lip of the rubber seal is in it groove on top. Pauli

Hey,


Thanks for the tips (especially the SOAPY water)..I got it done today and I didn't even removed the window. Not bad at all..still can't believe those window guys would charge me 120 for install..what a rip off!! Thanks again!

Dear xax,

May this find you well. I have the Volvo Tech Manual Body Fittings, Exterior (Section 8 ⏞-86, 88]. While it deals with the power windows, it does not deal with the small panel next to the rear window.

Here's what I suggest. Go back to the junkyard. If it is a place where they'll let you remove the part(s) you need, take the following tools:
(a) Metal putty knife (1 1/2" blade and 3" blade).
(b) Plastic putty knife ( as above).

I suspect (but do not know) that the small window is held in place with urethane sealant. If you gently pry up the moldings (and at the junkyard you can find out where to pry and how hard to pry), I believe you'll find that the glass is simply "urethaned" to the metal.

If that's the case, you can then go back to your car, pry up the moldings. You'll need a special sealant release agent (be careful: most solvents will destroy the paint!!!). Once you have the old sealant removed (and it all must be removed, every speck of it), you take a tube of fresh urethane sealant apply a bead to the metal, and bed the new glass into it.

There may be plastic clips, that you'll need to get from the Volvo dealer, which fit on the edge of the glass, into which the molding clips. Alternatively, these clips may be affixed to the metal.

In short, if you can practice on a junkyard car, you can figure out how to do this job. You'll need a sealant remover, a tube of fresh urethane sealant, and possibly some molding clips.

I wish I could give you a step-by-step, but I've never had to do this. The Volvo Tech manual does not deal with this job. Perhaps they assume such repairs will be done by an auto glass specialist.

Yours faitfully,

spook

Nothing was glued or eurathaned on my 95 940 but it sure was an interestin g time :)
I just went through this for the same reason last week. I left the car unlocked with nothing but a cheap radio available that I wanted to get enough energy to replace. Anyway a friend allowed me to remove a window from a 1987 740 he was about to send to the junk yard. I'm a first time amateur at this stuff so I think anyone with plenty of patience will do fine.
So here is what i did:
Remove the door panel.
Remove the outside door trim(bottom first then sides then top) with a putty knife bent about 45 degrees a half inch from the edge. Go slow as it is held by pressure and road grime only. Bending it will annoy you when you try and reinstall it. Put a strip of masking tape along the door and up to the moldings to avoid scratching the paint as you gently pry the trim up.
Unclip the hoders of the window to the lift mechinism.
Remove the rubber molding that surrounds the rollup window. They are just setting there with nothing holding them at this point.
Remove the rollup window.
There is a metal pillar between the fixed window and the one that moves. A rivet holds it to the top of the area that the top of the window seats in to when its rolled up. Grind it off with a dremel tool and with a small punch drive the rivet up into the top of the door.
There are one or two bolts or nuts in the door that hold the bottom of the metal pillar.
The vertical pillar should now be able to move towards the front pf the car releasing the front edge of a big rubber molding that surrounds the fixed window.
Gently pull the piller out. It requires a bit of turning and goofing around but it does come out without bending...sort of like working one of those wire puzzles that initially look impossible
The worst is now over I hope
Put the molding around the replacement glass and insert it into the area towards the front of the removeable window area. It will just fit as the front area is a tiny bit taller than the back. Go to the hardware store and buy some silicone grease. Otherwise you will spend much sad time trying to slide the window and molding towards the rear of the car. For me clean and dry, soapy water, sweat and force all failed multiple times till I went and found the silicone grease. Unlike regular grease it won't degrade the rubber Use little and try not to get it anywhere else as it doesn't clean up very easy. Now just slide it back to its old home.
Now put it back together and try to remember to hook up everything so you don't have to practice more on emoving the door panel like me
Replace the rivet in the vertical piller once you are sure its all nice and the way you want it. When reassembling the outside trim the top goes first then the sides then the bottom. And do use some tape ro protect the finish. As my daughter is want to say: Stuff happens.
Good luck.
If you get stuck try my cell and I'll see if I can clarify what I'm trying to say.

Bill
651-210-1851I just went through this for the same reason last week. I left the car unlocked with nothing but a cheap radio available that I wanted to get enough energy to replace. Anyway a friend allowed me to remove a window from a 1987 740 he was about to send to the junk yard. I'm a first time amateur at this stuff so I think anyone with plenty of patience will do fine.
So here is what i did:
Remove the door panel.
Remove the outside door trim(bottom first then sides then top) with a putty knife bent about 45 degrees a half inch from the edge. Go slow as it is held by pressure and road grime only. Bending it will annoy you when you try and reinstall it. Put a strip of masking tape along the door and up to the moldings to avoid scratching the paint as you gently pry the trim up.
Unclip the hoders of the window to the lift mechinism.
Remove the rubber molding that surrounds the rollup window. They are just setting there with nothing holding them at this point.
Remove the rollup window.
There is a metal pillar between the fixed window and the one that moves. A rivet holds it to the top of the area that the top of the window seats in to when its rolled up. Grind it off with a dremel tool and with a small punch drive the rivet up into the top of the door.
There are one or two bolts or nuts in the door that hold the bottom of the metal pillar.
The vertical pillar should now be able to move towards the front pf the car releasing the front edge of a big rubber molding that surrounds the fixed window.
Gently pull the piller out. It requires a bit of turning and goofing around but it does come out without bending...sort of like working one of those wire puzzles that initially look impossible
The worst is now over I hope
Put the molding around the replacement glass and insert it into the area towards the front of the removeable window area. It will just fit as the front area is a tiny bit taller than the back. Go to the hardware store and buy some silicone grease. Otherwise you will spend much sad time trying to slide the window and molding towards the rear of the car. For me clean and dry, soapy water, sweat and force all failed multiple times till I went and found the silicone grease. Unlike regular grease it won't degrade the rubber Use little and try not to get it anywhere else as it doesn't clean up very easy. Now just slide it back to its old home.
Now put it back together and try to remember to hook up everything so you don't have to practice more on emoving the door panel like me
Replace the rivet in the vertical piller once you are sure its all nice and the way you want it. When reassembling the outside trim the top goes first then the sides then the bottom. And do use some tape ro protect the finish. As my daughter is want to say: Stuff happens.
Good luck.
If you get stuck try my cell and I'll see if I can clarify what I'm trying to say.

Bill
651-210-1851

..got it done before I saw your post...I do appreciate the detailed instructions and yeah..one thing i forgot to do is to bolt the black pilar on the door frame..so i have to go and take the cover off...oh well..it was FUN!!! thanks again...