Im going to need to redue my struts on my sedan.
What would i be looking at for both of them to be done?
Im advanced enough to do the work myself. What is needed?
Just recently put new bearings in the front.

Two must are a spring compress and an impact wrench (pneumatic or electric). A tie rod separate helps too. Autozone has free spring compressor loaners (must put up a deposit) and tie rod separators. As recommended on the other post, rebuild the whole front end while your at it. This will be a long weekend job (20 hours). If you need to drive it every day, consider buying used strut/wheel assemblies at the junk yard. I got a left and right for $25 each. I pulled them in about 20 minutes by unbolting the strut bearing from the strut tower and the control arm from the frame and disconnecting the tie rod end. Each included the strut/spring assemble, wheel hub, ball joint, brake calibur, and control arm (one side even had the wheel and tire). I rebuilt them with all new parts at night during the week including the brake caliburs and then swapped them out as complete assemblies on the weekend in 2-3 hours. With this approach, if you don't have an air compressor and impact wrench, you can carry the assemble to a friends house that does and compress the spring and remove the top strut nut. jp

Without the help of the Brickboard, I probably wouldn't have tackled this job. Bentley manual was good too. Here's a post I did about it that you may find helpful: Strut Replacement for Novices

If you mean you are going to replace the strut inserts ("shocks") it's not a complicated job. Replacing the entire strut assembly is. The wisdom on this BB is to avoid the typical Monroe or Gabriel stuff and go with Boge/Sachs (OE supplier) units...and some have used KYB. Strut insert replacement is one of the jobs that the Haynes book covers fairly well.

Search this BB for "strut" posts and check out the 700/900 FAQ's (pull down the "Features" menu) - plenty of info.
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)

your going to need a good quality strut spring compressor. IMHO its tough to beat the craftsman one for quality and price. Air tools aren't required but sure help when removing the big strut nut and compressing the springs. Its also a good time to check/replace ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, brake hoses.
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1990 240 Sdn 277K,tach,strut brace,turbo sway 1990 240 Wgn M47II 157K,tach,strut brace,poly bushings,IPD sways,bilsteins

I put a used strut assembly on my '86 245.You need to remove the wheel,brake pads,caliper,rotor,undo the tie rod end and disconnect the ball joint from the strut bottom.I also had to cut the brake line clamps that are attached to the strut to free up the brake lines.then I unwrapped the lines from around the strut, caliper and all.I didn't need to disconnect any brake lines therefore no bleeding.You will need to spread the lines a little get the strut through them. disconnect the three bolts in the engine bay that hold the strut assy in place.Mark the alignment notch first so you put it back in the same place.You can now pull the strut assembly out,it helps to have a helper,one to hold the strut while the other loosens the bolts.
If you are replacing the inserts(shocks) then you need to loosen the strut nut(under the black cap) and compress the coil BEFORE removal.I also used a new ball joint,caliper bolts and tie rod end.I forget if I had to disconnect the sway bar link,that might have to be done as well.The first one I did took a couple hours,now I can swap one out in a hour or so.
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philvo '86 245 218k,'90 240 198k,'87 SAAB 900 SPG 213k