Dear Fellow Volvo Owners,

My 940 just passed 200,000 and I have run into my first major problem that I cannot determine. The model year is 1993 and it has a Regina Fuel System...yuck. My Bluemonster stalls. Diagnostics say that it is missing a signal from the idle control valve and there is a problem with the charging system. I checked the charging system and it is working within normal ranges. I replaced the ICV($242)and it still stalls. I'm thinking it might be the fuel system. Hopefully only the filter. But maybe the fuel pumps. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be or how to determine what else it might be. Thanks for the help.

Bluemonster.

bluemonster,

My 1993 T-Rex/Regina is doing the same. Engine died twice, stopped, restarted like nothing happened; twice in the last four times I drove it. I pulled the same codes, 2-2-3, signal missing to or from IAC Valve and 1-3-2, battery voltage too high or low. http://brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=822983

I would say that the 2-2-3 is just a nuisance since I don’t think an IAC code would make the car stall. I am in the process of checking the alternator brushes, and cleaning grounds, and connections. Too high or too low a voltage would cause a shutdown.

I like HenryC’s “worn brushes”. I’ll let you know what I find. Please post your findings.
--
Tom F. Three 940s. '93 T-Rex now running. Mods, RainX. Lien holder on two more (the kid's). Rust In Pieces, '78 245

Hey T-Rex,

I replaced my RPM sensor and my fuel pump relay. Problem all fixed. I didn't bother with the brushes because when I checked the battery and altanator it was operating within normal ranges. You were right about the IAC value being fine. I put my old one in after cleaning it and it worked fine.

Thanks again,

Bluemonster

I had a similar problem. The car would run fine except when you let off the mostly when slowing down to turn.

As I recall one of the codes that kept coming up was 1-3-2 - battery voltage too low. My charging system seemed to meet specs. I pulled the alternator regulator and brush assembly and found that the brushes were almost worn out.

Replaced the regulator and it was back to normal.

Good luck,
Henry

Henry C,

Actually my battery and altanator were operating within normal ranges. I replaced the fuel pump relay and the RPM sensor. Problem all fixed. Thanks for your help.

Bluemonster

Dear bluemonster,

May this find you well. Since you replaced the IACV, what codes have presented themselves? Does OBD still show the IACV signal is absent? If so, check the wiring harness.

Other things to check:
(a) RPM/Crank sensor (on top of the transmission bell housing, towards the passenger side). If this fails, the engine stops. This sensor should have been replaced at least once, for a car with 200K.


(b) Fuel pump relay (on the relay block) and/or the fuel injection (radio suppression, in the engine bay) relay.

Could you have picked up a load of "bad fuel"? Fuel contaminated with water is usually troublesome.

Hope this helps. If you can spare the time, report back on what you find.

Yours faithfully,

spook

Spook,

You were right on both counts. My RPM sensor was worn through. Replaced it and no more stalling. I also replaced my Fuel Pump Relay and no more problems starting a warm engine. Thanks for all your help.

Bluemonster