Haynes/Bently says not to do this because of the weight of the tranny. I don't care about the firewall or the tranny, so will it be a problem pulling the whole thing in one piece?

Parts car?

Problem isn't so much the weight (an engine hoist can easily take it, it's only about 250 to 300 kilos or so). The problem is the length. To get it out you'll need to tilt it quite a bit so you can lift the entire assembly out through what's essentially the opening between the top of the firewall and the top of the nosecone. To do this you'll need to have either space available under the car (inspection pit?) or get the car up in the air to create some extra space.

On a 700/900 series it's really easy as the front completely disassembles to you only need to clear the low metal behind the bumper. I always remove engines with the gearbox or transmission attached from a 700/900; much easier to seperate them once they're out.

On a 200, you've got the upper metal to clear - the bit between the top of the radiator pack and the top of the grille. If it's a parts car and you don't care about the front, cut that top plate out to make life much easier for yourself.

You also make life easier if you remove the hood before trying to lift the engine+tranny out.

Do get an assistant to help manhandle the engine/transmission/hoist.

Bram

I should be Ok then. I am using a chain hoist attached to an Ibeam, so I should have enough lifting power. The whole front end does unbolt from a 240. The only cross part that doesn't is the lower radiator support, and it is only as high as the bottom of the crank pulley.

Yeah, I pulled the engine/tranny together from a '91 240. I used a 3 ton shop crane to do it, though. Removed the frontend, hood, and radiator. The engine is now on a stand waiting for who knows what. The tranny is in a '92 244 I use as my daily driver. No harm done to either. Just use heavy chains, keep the load balanced (I used a "load leveler").

Good luck.

--
'88 240GL, '90 240DL, '91 240

People invariably think they need to lift the front of the car to gain clearance. I read a tip which pointed out this was just making the angling problem worse, and it was better to lift the back end as high as possible. I've never tried this, but it might make sense.
If you are just getting the parts and don't care about the car, I have removed an entire engine and gearbox simply on a trolley jack and a plank of wood.
Remove the radiator, unbolt the cross member, cut out all the other metal, support the engine unit on a long plank under the jack, and slide it forwards. On a concrete floor you wouldn't need the plank - this was on soft grass.

Thanks for the tips. The car is toast so I could cut the front end out, but its so rusty I think the whole front end would collapse, and I have to tow this thing to the salvage yard. It sounds like my chain hoist should lift it ok. I don't have a leveller so I imagine the tranny will tip down and hit the floor.

Dude, I just did an engine swap last weekend on my 88 200. Took only one day to pull engine and drop another in, and had it running before night fall. Both with trannys attached and not removing crossmember. Radiator must come out thoas well as the hood. Rear of car was not raised either. Did it in my driveway. Sometimes a book will send you the long way around. only used top two lifting points on engine.

CAT