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Hello all I am experiancing a strange problem bith me ES. The temp guage slowly creaps up to near or into the red zone(the oil temp guage reads about 7 o,clock). The engine does not seem to be too hot( no power loss). The stragness comes fron the rad. After one of these hot spells, after the engine had cooled I opened the rad cap(not the overflow cap) and to my surprise the rad was low on coolent even though the recovery tank was at the specified level. To curb further problems i instaled a new thermostat, rad cap, and recovery tank cap(all new from volvo). I refilled with 50/50mix coolent and drove away. Again the heat went up and agin the rad was 1/2 empty. I refilled again and the symptoms remained the same. Is there a bleeding technique to this system? I have no apparent leaks(clean garage floor), but the overflow tank does just that when hot, but stays full when all cools down. Any suggestions or paST EXPEIANCES?
Merci
Yvan
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65 122s/73 1800es/80 262c(350ci v8)/81 242na/89 745t/87 780/89 740/89 740t/ 86 745 and too many parts cars and projects to list
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posted by
someone claiming to be mjamgb
on
Tue May 18 05:48 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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A failed water pump nearly always makes a lot of noise, spews fluid or siezes up tighter than a tick. VERY rarely does the impeller fail and usually only gets less efficient through either poor design (some aftermarket stuff is Caca) or cavitation "chipping" little bits off the impeller or casing.
Thermostat and head operate together to provide a bypass system when the thermostat is closed. Anyway it would not cause a loss of coolant.
Blown head gasket losing half your radiator water would be very apparent (plumes of steam, hydrolocked engine, bubbles and goo in radiator or mysterious goo in sump).
My suspicion is a bad hose connection or hidden leak in the radiator or heater core. Having these serviced (if you pull them out) is cheap insurance, even if the problem turns out to be elsewhere.
You just may turn up another issue when the radiator comes out.
As a side note, I do not compeltely trust any of my gauges. If the engine does not act hot or feel hot even when the gauge says it is hot, I would get a thermometer in the radiator head tank with the cap off to check the thermostats veracity.
My Dodge with the Cummins (1997) has a spastic thermostat that likes to periodically wave at me between 170 and 240 degrees F. Very unnerving but wildly inaccurate... makes me stop and verify myself periodically, however.
Mike!
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Sounds like partially blocked rad core,not running through quick enough and pressureising overflow tank. Remove top tank and rod out cores should give results.
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Hi Yvan,
Are you happy that the water pump is working properly? - can you see reasonable water movement through the open top of the radiator as you vary the revs? Also (and I know its an obvious one) is the fanbelt properly tensioned? The reason I ask is that you say that the overflow tank is overflowing if I understand you correctly and so its worth considering the possibility that the coolant loss is as a result of overheating, not causing it.
Does it happen both at idle and at higher engine speeds and/or road speeds?
If you were to lose that much coolant through a head gasket failure I'd expect to see steam in the exhaust. Is there any oil in the coolant or has the oil changed colour?
Let us know what you find - it'll save much time for others in the future.
Aidan
--
1967 131, 1969 131
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Yes I have checked and rechecked the belt tension, it' s good, but i also suspect the pump. My only quam with it is that the pully is turning as it should, so it stands to reason that the pump rpm is the same as the pulley, unless the impeller is not turning. Is this possible?, I have never opened up a b18/20 water pump to know if this is possible. To be on the safe side I ordered a new pump today(cheap insurance). My other thought is that the guage or sender is faulty, any specs out there to check there function?
Thanks
Yvan
--
65 122s/73 1800es/80 262c(350ci v8)/81 242na/89 745t/87 780/89 740/89 740t/ 86 745 and too many parts cars and projects to list
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I've never taken a water pump apart so I'm not sure but I do know that wear will allow one to turn but not work efficiently.
If you want to be sure that you are losing coolant then a quick and easy test is to compare the amount of coolant required to fill the system with the specified capacity (assuming that your system is standard). Once you've done this then you will know for sure that any significant drop is loss, not insufficient filling. It sounds like you're sure that you filled it completely though.
You might like to check along every hose for discolouration from tiny holes. When the system is hot and under pressure it may be losing coolant in a way that isn't immediatly obvious. Every hose end should also be checked to see if there's any seepage.
I'm not familiar with the detailed ES specification but does it have a viscous coupling fan? If so you need to check that its working properly as it may be slipping. Normally this will result in the car having normal temperature at speed (because of airflow) but overheating at lower speeds. Its possible to check - if you're careful - by trying to impede the rotation of the fan while the engine is hot (with a long implement held against the fan along the direction of rotation). With a faulty fan it can be possible to stop the fan entirely this way.
See Joaquin's post about testing the water temperature. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=658660
I don't know of any specifications that you can compare with but as you have a 122S it might be interesting to see if the ES runs much hotter then it.
Aidan
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1967 131, 1969 131
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posted by
someone claiming to be Joaquin Novara
on
Fri May 14 05:06 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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How good is the gasket on the cap over the radiator?.
Last year, a worned gasket leaking air (on that cap) changed the sealed system of my 121 to a open one, with similar simptoms.
Happy volving.
Joaquin
Rojo 121 Amazon
Lima Peru
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Joaguin
The cap seals well(the system is under pressure). I have changed both caps to no avail.
Merci
Yvan
--
65 122s/73 1800es/80 262c(350ci v8)/81 242na/89 745t/87 780/89 740/89 740t/ 86 745 and too many parts cars and projects to list
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posted by
someone claiming to be Joaquin Novara
on
Fri May 14 16:02 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Yvan:
Sadly, then I second the suggestion of make a compression test on your engine. Chances of a blowing gasket are high on your case (¿Have some humidity on your exhaust fumes?, ¿are you using a thick gasket due low gas octane?).
Joaquin
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Yvan;
It sounds to me like you just need to REALLY fill the cooling system...it overheated because the rad is only half full...and the syphon effect to refill from the overflow bottle doesn't work when the rad is that low...
Here's the technique that I use to fill the sealed system: Fill the rad, start the engine (rad cap off), and wait until the thermostat opens (indicated by level dropping), and refill the rad right to the top, open the flow to the heater core by turning the heat to hot...top up rad again if required...only then, seal rad with its cap, and fill overflow bottle half way. Try that and let us know what your temp does...
Cheers
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Ron I tried that through 3 hot-cold(waiting till thermostat opens) cycles last night, today I will drive it again and hope for the best!
Merci
Yvan
--
65 122s/73 1800es/80 262c(350ci v8)/81 242na/89 745t/87 780/89 740/89 740t/ 86 745 and too many parts cars and projects to list
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Don't really know for sure, but to get an idea to start with, it could be the Thermostat not opening up. The thermostat opens up and pours into the top of the radiator if i remember correctly, and it would fill it back up. As to the expansion tank, well, i don't know, maybe the line to the expansion tank is clogged? Just something to start with, if you haven't already checked it out. Good luck!
--
Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil 68 142 (74 b20, broken m40) AWAITS ME OUTSIDE!!! (check out my cardomain site, kneedsacar)
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