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Dear Kev,
Good p.m. and may this find you well. If you've not already pulled the vibration damper (aka harmonic balancer, or ), refer to the FAQs for the correct procedure.
I just (30 mins. ago) finished doing one. I offer a few thoughts:
(a) I used a screw-driver in the ring gear teeth to immobilize the crankshaft, while turning the crank bolt (and when tightening the crank bolt). The screwdriver goes on the driver's side of the ring gear opening when loosening the crank bolt, and on the passenger's side of the ring gear opening, when tightening the crank bolt
(b) The crank bolt comes off normally, i.e., left to loosen (counter-clockwise)
(c) Before removing the balancer, use white-out to mark the balancer edge and the timing case, so that you can align the balancer for re-installation, such that it seats properly onto the key on the front of the crank sprocket.
(d) The balancer may be tapped gently with a plastic mallet, to "walk" if off the shaft
(e) Coat the inside of the balance with anti-seize compound or motor oil, before replacing it.
(f) To replace it, line up the marks you made on the balancer's edge and the timing case. If the balancer does not slide easily along the shaft, use a plastic mallet to tap it home. Move mallet around the edge, while tapping, to keep the balancer's axis parallel with the axis of the crankshaft.
(g) When the balancer is properly seated, its leading edge should be precisely 2 1/8" (2.125", 54mm) from the front of the timing belt case (if it is further than that, e.g., 2 3/8", it is not fully seated and/or may be mis-aligned with the key on the front of the crank sprocket, in which case forcing it backwards will ruin the crank sprocket, by breaking off the key)
(h) Torque for the crank bolt is 43 pound/feet (Volvo data booklet) and then 60 degrees of arc, from wherever the torque wrench releases (or clicks).
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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