Chances are quite good that the problem is failure of the 0-ring (s) inside the junction block. They are designed to hold brake system pressures, the switch seal is not.
Replacing the junction block requires removal of the old one, (PITA job), loss of fluid, installation of new block, complete system bleed/flush, and the time and money for all that. I priced the job at an indie shop 5-6 yers ago, it was $50 for the part, $50 for the labor, and $50 for the bleed/flush. Prolly more now.
While you are driving with the leak, you can keep the brakes functioning fairly well. Here's what I did.
(1) Buy two cans of good DOT-4 brake fluid, a 12-ounce can and a 32-ounce can.
(2) Carry the 12-ounce can in the car, see if it will fit between the battery and whatever is in front of the battery. The can must stay upright, that stuff eats paint. Refill it from the 32-ounce can kept in the garage.
(3) Check and fill the fluid reservoir every morning and evening, and in between, depending on your driving. The leak will drip all the time, but will leak faster only when the brake pressure is raised.
(4) Drive so as to need brakes a minimum. Strangely enough, easy acceleration seems to give a mind-set that aids in easy braking. Look 'way ahead, back off gas early to slow without brakes. BTDT
(5) If the reservoir gets empty, air will get into the lines. Be sure the reservoir is full when you shut down for overnight. Any air in the lines may be just in the vertical lines and overnight the bubbles can float up and out.
This kept me going for a couple of months.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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