I think my gas is evaporating either from the gascap or small holes near neck by the cap. does anyone know how to check for small holes in the trunk area and how to seal them?

thanks

Another point to consider: There has been much anectdotal evidence, and my own personal experience that these tanks will leak fuel when filled with gas and parked up hill. I tried to solve this problem by doubling up on the fuel cap gaskets, but it seems to be coming from somewhere else. I know that these cars must have a tank vent somewhere (otherwise the gas pump wouldn't function), and these cars were built before they started putting charcoal canisters in to capture any escaping vapors. So if you are noticing leaking gas, or some sort of gas smell sometimes, it might be just part of this Amazon gas tank mystery.

I would appreciate any tips on how to stop gas from leaking out when on a full tank and parked up a hill. Is it just mine or do these old cars always smell more like gas than the new ones??

Anyone???


mario m.

All Amazons do that, even on level ground on a hot day with the tank full. The leakage is from the gas cap seal. The only answer I've ever found is not to fill the tank as full as it will go.

DO NOT PUT NUTS AND BOLTS, GRAVEL, OR ANY OTHER FORM OF DEBRIS IN THESE TANKS. I am speaking from experience. I have recently sealed my tank using the POR-15 process. Worked like a charm, but I made the mistake if filling my tank up with a few handfulls of gravel while I used the phosphoric acid. I found that it took me the ENTIRE process to get everyone of those little buggers out of there. And I consider myself lucky. These are baffled tanks, things do NOT slide straight through.
Good Luck,
Josh

Oh, TERRIBLY sorry.
I wouldn't suggest gravel or gp "debris" anyway but point well taken.
Really, agitators in the tank are only necessary if you have actual flaky rust in there as they help break it up so the sealant adheres better. You can still add a few (counted) nuts bolts washers, whatever and count them on the way out to loosen scale (must be some holes in the baffles).

chastised Mike!

sorry Mike, wasnt trying to chastise, that old trick was not nessecary with my tank and I wish someone had told me that before hand, especially the fact that all the chevy guys who do that have non-baffled tanks.

Sorry,
Josh

Fear not, merely attempting humility ;)

Mike!

Just kiddinn'!

The slushing compound works great for pinholes. I got it from (shudderr) JCWhitney. Came with phosphoric acid and a buffer and the "goop." Take tank out, remove senders and fittings, seal all holes (but for one) add all your rusty bolts, nuts, washers and small durable parts to the tank with the phosphoric acid (hey, why not kill tow birds with one stone?!), seal the last hole and shake, turn and rattle. Dump out acid and add buffer then repeat shake-down. Dump debris from tank then rinse several times. REmove all plugs and rinse again. replace plugs and add slushing compound. Turn every-which-way then pull plugs and dump extra compound back into can. blow fuel pick-up tube and drain plug out with air and let dry.

I would also suggest replacing cap, filler hose, and any soft fuel lines. Also critically inspect your hard lines as they can get boinked by rocks or jacks and tend to corrode right att he clips for holding them to the chassis.

Mike!

POR make a gas tank sealer:

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=316

I'm having my gas tank altered for fuel injection. $175 to add a return line, weld and brace the filler neck, and sealed.

Paul

I had a 122 that had leaks and bad rust.
Coated the inside with a sealant whose product name eludes me now.
Have done this with other cars as well.

Tank gets removed, sealant goes in and you slosh it around. Once dry the inside has a protective plastic coating stopping leaks and rust flakes from glogging fuel lines.
Worked great for me.

Good luck.

You will know if the tank has holes by either the smell in and around the trunk or gas will drip down the side of the tank when you get a fill up. Mostly the smell though.
I've used a product called "SealAll". With the problem you describe I'd apply some around the base of the inlet neck and wherever you think there are holes. Squeeze some under the neck too and into the seam there. Best to let it dry, which won't take long, and then apply another layer. Comes in a tube and can be applied directly to the hole. Holds for a while (months). Later you can kind of carefully pick it out when it's no longer sealing, and do it again. It's the only product I've found - and I've tried many - that's close to effective. Can be purchaced at a parts store.
You might consider not filling the tank up as the gas will only accelerate the deterioration of the sealer.
It's and ongoing thing with those tanks!