Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 12/2003 140-160 INDEX

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Painted it myself. 140-160

Painted the my '74 145 last night, using my 3.5 Hp belt-drive compressor and a 1 qt spray gun. Treated surface rust spots with a spot sandblaster, rust convertor, sanded smooth and puttied, primed. No major holes to deal with, a little rot aroud fron turn signal lights. Removed trim, roof rack, metal cap plugs in holes. Painted door frames last week, removed all carpets, spot blasted floors and rust converted. Masked rubber, glass, covered wheels. Chased up all the extra lights I could.

Pinned a 20x25 foot sheet of plastic in the garage over the car. Bought a gallon of Centari enamel, mid-temp reducer and a quart of gloss hardener.
Wiped down with Prep-sol, mixed 1/2 gallon paint at 8:3:1 paint:thinner:hardener in a fresh container, fired up the compressor and set to it. Air temp about 60 degrees. Used a 3M charcoal VOC mask.

Went pretty well. After a couple of initial clogs (old gun), I managed about a 6-8" stripe of gloss flow, making the roof and hood pretty easy to cover. Compressor regulator set at about 60 psi seemed best. I tried above that but seems to overspray too much and dusts. I have a water trap near the compressor, and a portable one on the gun. Lots of mist, hard to see.

Sprayed roof, hood, to get flow right, then did rockers(more dust down there), then moved from top down, to avoid touching new paint with hose or arm. Dumped remaining paint onto interior floor.

Looked OK this morning. Decent gloss over all, some overspray, no drips. Only a couple of thin spots. Will pick off bits tonight with colorsand 1000 grit, and use the rest of the paint for a second coat.

BTW the color is the original orange, not the red-orange, more like the color of the type in the "USERNAME" and "OPTIONS" fields in the posting form.

It should have plenty of paint on it when I'm done to last another couple of decades, I hope.

Seem I have to done one of these every ten years or so. Don't know if it's worth the trouble, and only saves a couple of hundred over Maaco. Maybe the paint is better quality.








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    Painted it myself. 140-160

    Got a 142, I'm now taking out the interior and have been comtemplating the idea of painting it myself since I'm doing the rust repair and body work myself and can use the money saved to buy very good quality paint. Thanks for the post.








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      Painted it myself. 140-160

      Be sure to get a good respirator, is my only warning.
      If you got the tools, you'd only be out the paint cost and a few hours in a sticky mist.








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    Painted it myself. 140-160

    Nice going, good report, very useful for me. I've been thinking of painting my PV for two years now, but just haven't been able to muster the courage. I'll file this post for future reference.
    Too bad you didn't have any runs and curtains ;-). I would have loved to know how you dealt with them. My 142 was painted by the PO on a cold winter's day and it has more curtains than the La Scala Opera House.
    Bob S.








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      Painted it myself. 140-160

      I've had sags and curtains before. You let them dry thoroughly and sand them with a wood block and 1200-2000 grit "Colorsand paper", then polish them out. It takes forever. You can't do anything while the paint is wet. It never works.
      Biggest thing I learned this time is that lower air pressure is better for the home user. Most guns and lots of paints spec 90 psi, but they're using pro booths with exhaust systems.

      By the time the job is done I'm so sick of it that I'm quite happy with the car being simply all one color. Be sure to get a good charcoal respirator. I also pull knit shirt-sleeves over my nose, mouth and head. Sweat builds up and you don't want that in the paint.








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        Painted it myself. 140-160

        I painted my 122 myself (http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/volvo122s.html) It was a pain, but wound up looking decent. You can buy a "run planer" which is essentially a small file mounted on a block of wood that is helpful for slowly removing a run (after the paint is entirely cured).

        For my second Volvo, I stripped everything I possibly could and took it to a "budget" paint shop...the results are much better and it was safer for me as the isocyanates in paint aren't very good for you. results here: http://www.classicmotorsports.net/142.html I was happier paying $1100 for the paint job that came out awesome rather than $400 in materials for a so-so job.








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          Painted it myself. 140-160

          I totally agree,but I've as yet not found a paint shop here in Maine, budget or otherwise, that is willing to give me a guesstimate of less than 3K on a 1962 car stripped by me. Mostly they say " You go ahead and strip it, buddy, and than bring it to us, and then we'll give you an estimate." The notion of hauling a stripped car from shop to shop to collect estimates is not particularly apealing to me. But, I'll keep on looking.
          Bob S.








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            Painted it myself. 140-160

            I musta got lucky with my first call to a body shop... I had my Jag stripped, body work done, and an initial coat of primer when I called a shop for estimate. It was a pretty big shop that came with good recommendation, and it took no coaxing at all to get the owner to stop by my house later that day and give me a most reasonable estimate.

            In the end, they did some touch up work on the primer, and sprayed it off very nicely with good quality paint for a total cost of about $1200. I will go back when it comes time to make the 145 shiny again...


            -Matt








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            Painted it myself. 140-160

            I had the same problem a few years ago(10-12). The problem is with the interpretation of stripped. The garage that did my car charged me less than the estimate they did because of the level of stripping i did. The average home mechanics idea of stripping is removal of lights and maybe some trim, not enough, so the painter has to strip further and or tape a lot. When I stripped the car I did so with gusto, all that remained was the suspension, all mechanicals(engine, trans ect), glass, trim, interior was removed(including dash, I had to change the fan anyways(78 240). If you specify the level of stripping you will do they can give a clearer estimate. If you have the time a complete down to the metal srtip is worth the effort(no tape lines), the resulting job is better and no suprise rust will be hidden. Also with pictures you get a great sunday afternoon garage bull sesion story to tell, Enjoy

            Merci

            Yvan
            --
            65 122s/73 1800es/80 262c(350ci v8)/81 242na/89 745t/87 780/89 740/89 740t/ 86 745 and too many parts cars and projects to list







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