Are the poly. rear trailing arm bushings that FCP Groton sells
any good? I don't mind the harsher ride, would welcome the
improvement in handling, and think that re-using the old shells
is easier than pressing the d**ned things out.


TIA -b.

I enquired with Eric at iPd about the installation. It still preferred to remove the bushing first, although it can be done on the car. Tougher, but still doable.

The reported ride is indeed that it's firmer.

I'll be getting mine's from iPd. Yes, a little more in price, but I have much more confidence since their entire bushing set (front and rear, full poly) has been installed and tested on their employee's vehicles for a little while already.

Such means more to me than just a company which just carries and sells parts. To do it as a job is one thing. To do is as an enthusiast too is another.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

To clarify on the term "tougher", it's that in place, you have to burn/scrub the old rubber bits out. Removed, you can just throw the old one in a burn can and let it burn itself clean.

As I don't have the tool, I'll still try to do mine's on the car. Considering how disintegrated they are now, it may not be so hard compared to if it were a newer intact bushing.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

Public service announcement: the poly trailing arm bushings are not
yet on IPD's website. I called them and they said that both the
front and rear trailing arm bushings are in fact now available
through them and that they are made by SuperPro.


-b.

Wow. I was just wondering the same thing myself and came here to post a question about the poly bushings when I saw your post. Are you just doing the RTA bushings or other too? My entire suspension is shot and so I'm considering doing all poly but, unlike you, I'm concerned about the increased ride harshness and noise.
--
92 745T 121K; 83 242Ti 188K - Brick on blocks for now.

I'm probably doing everything, but I'm keeping the Panhard (side-to-
side) rod bushings rubber, because the Panhard rod swings in a
different arc than the rest of the suspension, so having some
"give" in its bushings reduces the risk of damaging (i.e. breaking
off) its mount points.


The car currently has 161,000 miles on it, and has the original
bushings. It sounds like the forces of chaos have been unleashed
in the back when going over rough roads. Any sort of new bushings,
poly or not, can only be an improvement. OTOH, the front suspension
looks to be in quite good shape, becuase the PO had the struts and
bushings done at 135k miles.


-b.

check this post for a trailing arm bushing removal tool
without this tool you will likely drive yourself to throw a wrench into the air with great force
use the poly lube that comes with thw poly bushings to reduce noise

http://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm
--
Rich Wiebe

Thanks for the link - I've actually seen the tool, but with
the poly bushings, you leave the metal shell in place on the rear
axle, knock out the old rubber bits and press the poly bushing into
the old shell. No tool needed, AFAIK.


-b.

Hello,

Just installed the poly RTA bushings on my 245 last weekend. Then proceeded to drive 700 km with them. They are fabulous. Apart from a little bit of noise as they worked themselves in (gone within 50km), they are a huge improvement over the worn out rubber ones.

Go for it!!!


--
Richard - '87 245 DL , '82 242 GLT - Half a million km between them!!!