|
|
|
I am going to replace the hydraulic valve lifters on my wife's '94 960. I have all the parts, but my mechaninc friend at the dealership who was going to loan me all the special tools has just moved on to another dealership out of town. Now I am faced with making some of these tools myself to do the job.
I'm figuring that the tool that threads into the spark plug holes to push the top section down against the valves is probably a 'must have' to avoid any thread stripping in the bottom section. I think I can make a good facsimile of this tool pretty easy as I have access to a mill & lathe & basic machine shop stuff.
Now, what about the camshaft locking tool that goes in the back? I'm figuring to start the job with the position of Crank @ TDC on cyl 1 on power stroke. This should line up marks on Cam Pulleys to the basic set position. If I do this, and mark the Exhaust & Intake cam pulleys & cams so to not mix them up, and also to note the orientation of the three holes on each of the cams, then can the job be done without the cam locking tools? Any problems with laying the cams in the lower cylinder head section vs clamping it into the top section with the locking tools as shown in the Volvo manual?
Now the drifting tools for putting in the front & rear cam seals are tools that I think I will have to make on a lathe, and they should be pretty simple. Do both of these tools use a screw to thread into the camshaft to 'pull' the seal into the cylinder head? The clearance in the back is pretty small and I would think that this would be necessary in the back, but the front could probably be just tapped in.
The crank locking tool appears to me to be a convenience, but not a necessity. As long as the cams & the cam pulleys don't get mixed up, and the orientation of the trigonal hole pattern on each of the cams is correct with the pulleys, then there should just be the small error in cam positioning due to the slop in the clearance holes in the pulleys. If I do all this and align the timing marks on crank & cams, then all should work. Am I missing anything here about the utility and advantage of the locking tools?
Have I missed any other special tools needed for this job?
|
|
-
|
|
|
i am currently doing the same on a 2000 s80. in this case, the cam locking tools are mandatory, the exh cam has a timing setup in the gear that is spring loaded. the hold down tool is not mandatory, but would be nice. i've done the 960s without either tool, just go slow. with or without the hold down tool, the head must be raised evenly to clear the mounting pins. volvo has a set of pliers to force the the top evenly, that would be nice. the intake cam lifts the head because of the valve springs closing and the top binds on the exh side. do not pry anywhere except on the bosses cast into the head and there's not much room for that. any deep scratches or gouges on the sealing surface are not allowed. as far as the seals go, just place them on the cams before the top is installed.
word to the wise, those torx head screws in the back for the cam sensor are TIGHT! plus, no room to work. good luck, chuck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I did this job without any of the tools, though it would have been great to have them. Spent a lot of time working around things. When you mark the cam timing gears, just spray paint the front of the gears, then when the three bolts are removed you will know exactly where they go, but remember to mark the gear to the cam, as to the one of three postions that they could possible go back on. Just as you stated just set everything to the timing marks before you start. You can get the top of the head back on with out that special tool, just go very slow with 1/2 turns on all the bolts starting in the center and work out to the ends, takes some time with 40 some bolts but once you get a number of full threads deep then you can work your way up to full turns.
If you have any more questions let me know.
DanR 94 964 247,000 miles
--
DanR
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you for that reassurance Dan. I think I'm still going to make that clamping tool, as it looks pretty easy to make. As long as the plugs have an even number of pitches per inch, then my lathe will cut the threads for the spark plug wells.
What about the drifts for the seals. Does the one in the back use a screw into the internal thread of the cam to pull/push the tool/seal in? What about the front, is it pulled in likewise or just tapped in?
|
|
-
|
|
|
use the inside crank gear to set the carnkshaft it has a laser cut tooth as the proper timing mark with a line on seal cover plate similar to b230's in this position the pistons are actually at the bottom of their stroke in #1 cyl. other than that it seems like a pretty good plan...good luck The locking tools are for what volvo considers to be a smoother idle so you may have to use them if yours is not so smooth when you are done ....they change the position of both cams very slightly to achieve this. and back in the dy we did this under warranty.
|
|
-
|
|
|
So the alignment done with the cam locking tools would be setting the cam position relative to the pulleys within the range allowed by the slop in the clearance holes in the cam pulleys? A sort of fine tune to the cam timing. If this is the case, I will probably make some measurement of the screw position in the holes before taking all the screws out of the pulleys and try to duplicate the position of the pulley mounting from that. The car currently idles quite nicely, and I don't want to change that.
Regarding TDC or BDC, it doesn't really matter, but I will definitely check with a rod thru the spark plug holes before diassembly. It's nice to build as much as of a 'safety net' as possible to reason out the situation if needed.
|
|
-
|
|
|
I have done this twice without the tools.
This time around, my third, I made a tool to compress the cam cover against the head using 7/8-6 acme threaded rod and nuts from EMCO. (emco.com) $6 for the 3' rod & $6 for the 2 nuts. I cut 2 12" lengths of the rod...had the ends turned down and threaded them with an appropriate die (M14 x 1.25 also from EMCO or MSC) to thread into the spark holes.
You can align the cams without the tools...each cam has a slot cut into the firewall end just off the shaft centerline. To get correct cam alignment, position the passenger side cam slot below the camshaftshaft centerline and the driver side slot above the camshaft centerline. If you use a staightedge, you can align them with the split line of the cam cover when they are placed into the cam cover bearings. Thread a 10mm bolt into the back of the cams and use that with wire to secure the cams into the cover and do the same using the protruding part of the camshaft at the front end as well. You need to secure the camshaft up into the cam cover when you install it to prevent binding and allow the camshafts to fall into place properly. Invert the cam cover onto the head.. your cams hopefully won't fall out...compress...bolt..remove wires...install cam gears with the marks aligned...carry on and good luck.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you for the excellent reply. I appreciate the guidance on why the cams need to be held in the top section when installing that onto the bottom section. I like your suggestion of the wire. This is a good bit of resourcefulness. I can definitely improvise something along those lines. I'm in process of making the compression tools for the top section. This first unwelcome surprise was the M14x1.25 spark plug thread. I don't have a metric thread cutting gear set for my lathe, so I cannibalized the bottom section of two spark plugs to make the mating part of the rod going in to the spark plug holes.
I'm also going to make the front & rear seal installation drifts. Anything you could share on the design of these tools?
|
|
-
|
|
|
WOW!
--
Warren Bain - '99 V70GLT G-Valve > 80K mi, 89 300SE, '96 965 >120Kmi, near Manassas Va.. Check the 700/900 FAQ via the 'features' pull down menu. This post written with 100% recycled electrons.
|
|
|
|
|
