So I took my 240 to my dealer last week for some minor service. Since the car was originally purchased there, I get a free loaner car (in this case, a 2004 V70 turbo - woo-hoo!) Then I get me car back and notice how soft the V70's suspension felt compared to my 240.

My question is how can I soften the suspension on my car? Is it as simple as new shocks and springs? How can I tell if they need replacing? (I've done the pushing-each-corner-down-and-see-how-often-it-bounces trick and it bounces two or three times.) I've also noticed that my dealer adjusts the suspension during scheduled maintenance intervals. Exactly what are they doing and how effective is it?

If I do need new shocks, any suggestions that wouldn't break the budget of a humble government employee? I'm looking more for comfort than performance.

I realize that a brand-new Volvo will absorb bumps much better than a 20-year-old Volvo, so I'm not expecting a ride like a 1970s American-made aircraft carrier. But it seems to me that my brick is shaking its bones harder than it should.

Thanks.

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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 231,000 miles - with Euro headlights and lots of gauges

I've no idea how a V70 rides but my old '86 245 rode really hard. It had similar mileage to yours. I replaced the shocks and struts with Boge Automatics (OEM), replaced the rear trailing arm and torque rod bushings and the ride was much better. The corner bounce test showed nothing. I don't think that test works anymore.

As already stated, replace the shocks if they're original for sure. Even if they're not original, they may need replacement. Also, the next two things i can think of would be worn out bushings and/or tire choice. Are you the original owner? If so, have the bushings been replaced? What tires do you currently have installed(size and brand/model)?
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil 68 142 (74 b20, broken m40) sleeps... (check out my website, www.cardomain.com/id/kneedsacar

The car was purchased new by my mom and given to me in 1990, so it's always been in the family and I have it's complete maintenance history. I have never replaced the shocks, so I think they are original.

As for tires, I have Yokohama touring tires, 185-70-R14 I believe.

I have my bushings replaced as recommended by the dealer, so I assume they are up-to-date.

How much would a set of shocks run me and how many hours would it take to install (so I can estimate labor costs)? Also, can I trust a non-Volvo shop to install these? I've had bad experience taking bricks to non-Volvo places.
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 231,000 miles - with Euro headlights and lots of gauges

Installing new struts is a pretty big job, requiring a few special tools. On a scale of 1 to 10 (one being an oil change, ten being the notorious blower motor), it's about a 7, and could take you a weekend of frustrating work if it doesn't go smoothly. It's one of those things where if you have to ask, it's probably best that you consider getting it done at a garage. You can save money by finding and supplying the parts yourself. Consider also replacing the shock bearings while you're at it.

Normally the bounce test doesn't come up with anything, because of the opposing action of struts. Even bad struts usually do not bounce the way the way older shocks would when they go bad. So if your front struts are bouncing, man you must really have bad struts.

Also, just because you normally have your brick serviced by the dealer doesn't mean they've done anything about the bushings. Bushings usually don't have visible signs of wear until they're really, really bad. And it is not a periodic maintenance items that they would check. So unless you've brought the car in with specific complaints about the front end, they're probably not going to do inspect the bushings. So definitely do consider replacing your bushings and sway bar mounts, it's about time. IPD sells a complete kit. Make sure to get the OEM control arm bushings, not poly or Scan-tech. Bushings and mounts are easy to do at home, except for the control arm bushings, which require a press. Perhaps you could have the control arm bushings replaced when you get your new struts put in.

For sure, if you replace your bushings and struts, it will seem like driving a new car.

Excellent info. Thanks much!

I don't feel confident enough to do this work on my own so I'll have my dealer do it sometime this year.
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 231,000 miles - with Euro headlights and lots of gauges

Hey, you're in Dayton it says? I'm just an 1.25 hours north on I-75 in Bluffton (at least some of the time). If you wanted to sometime in may or august, I'd be willing to help you out to do some of this stuff on a saturday or something. I have done all the bushings on my car and all the shocks/struts, and have all the tools for the jobs. In a long saturday, we could probably rebuild either the front or the back suspension completely. It's kinda up to you, but if you're interested, it would save you a lot of labor charges. Has the dealer actually REPLACED any bushings? If not, at least your control arm rear bushings, trailing arm bushings, and torque rod bushings should probably be replaced. If they have been done, Doing rear shocks only takes an hour or so and the front struts a good 4 or 5 hours in a driveway without power tools. welp, good luck anyways!

Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/21mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/

As to how long that might take, i don't really know, I have a 142 and it is easier to change the shocks on it. (no struts) But for shocks, there are a few options, you can look at IPD, and then other regular providers such as http://catalog.alloemvolvoparts.com/ or www.tirerack.com or others.
Good luck!

Ps. People on here can give you more advice on exactly which shocks you should get. I'd be thinking that you'd want either the Boge Automatic or the KYB GR-2. But ask, so people who have had actual experiences with them can fill you in.
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Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil 68 142 (74 b20, broken m40) sleeps... (check out my website, www.cardomain.com/id/kneedsacar

Okay, thanks for the info!
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 231,000 miles - with Euro headlights and lots of gauges

A few questions back to you:

1)Are you the original owner? If so, and you have 231K- you need new shocks/struts.

2)The bounce test is not very indicitive of bad shocks. The jarring and float are more of a real test.

3)I have no idea what the dealer may be adjusting other than toe and camber. What kind of tire wear do you see? These adjustments will not affect ride, only tire wear and handling.

4)IF you are a bit mechanical, you can probably replace the rear shocks yourself for less than $90. Read thru some other posts for ideas on what rear shocks to purchase.The front struts are a job for an expericenced mechanic or a shop.Special tools are needed. For the rear all you need are two 19mm wrenches.

5)Check the rest of the suspension for loose bushing and worn components. If you are not sure how to do this, find a good honest Volvo shop.At 231K my rear trailing arm bushing were shot and making all kinds of noise and vibrations.

Hope this gets you started.Im sure you will get other advice.

Mike in Seattle

The car has always been in my family, so in that sense I am the original owner.

I never thought the bounce test was worth much, but I thought I would mention it anyway.

Thanks for the advice!
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 231,000 miles - with Euro headlights and lots of gauges