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RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

I'm chasing a rich and I mean rich problem. Engine blowing black smoke, mileage 10 mpg (you can watch the gas gauge go down), idleing like crap etc etc. I don't even wana think about the condition of the CC. ANyway, the voltage I'm getting off the O2 sensor is low and varies between .10-.25v with the engine idleing. The voltage reading does not change with the engine throttled up to 3000 rpm's. It never goes over .25v. I've tried 2 sensors that are known to be good and the voltage reading is the same with each. I've also swapped fuel pressure regulators and that isn't the problem. Leaning the mixture by pulling a vacuum line off the intake manifold makes a dramatic difference and the engine immediately idles normally and is smooth at 3000 rpms. What the crap is going on with this thing? I've searched the archives until I'm falling asleep at the computer at 2AM.

bl








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    RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

    Have you tried pulling the injectors after a short run? Pull them and look for drips. As the injectors age they don't close always and they'll stay open pouring in fuel.

    BTW...your oil is going to be needed of changing soon....gas in oil sweeps off all the years of build-up inside your engine all the while diluting your oil... this then causes your oil pick up screen to get clogged and by that time, you' F'ed! Change your oil OFTEN until you fix this!
    -Andy
    1991 740 had same problem once...new injectors fixed this.








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    RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

    Thanks for the input guys! This, by the way, is a NA engine. I'll go back over it again looking for leaks etc and I'll swap the ECT sensor from dads ot see if I get any difference. Appreciate the ideas as always!

    bruce








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      RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

      With those low O2 sensor readings, it/they may be crapped up from the excess fuel, and not to be trusted.

      I've read (on the NKG site I think) that they can sometimes be revived by removing and using a propane torch to get them really hot.

      Good luck with the ETC swap.
      --
      Bruce Young
      '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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        RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

        Thanks! I've read somewhere on this site that they can be heated real hot with a propane torch to burn off the deposits and sprayed with brake cleaner. I thought the sensor was a dud at first so I removed it and let it hang under the car. I unplugged the connector and hooked up my VOM. I heated the tip with my torch and it reacted with about .5-.7v which is what it's supposed to do from what I've read indicating it was good. Tried another one anyway but the condition remains.

        Many thanks again!

        bruce








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    RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

    Since it's unlikely to have 2 bad fuel pressure regulators, I'd look for a bad ECT sensor- that's engine coolant temp, on the head under the intake manifold.
    If it's failed, or the wire is broken, the computer thinks the engine is stone-cold all the time, and runs like a carbureted car with the choke stuck on.

    I'd buy a couple new sets of spark plugs too, to get you through this till it's fixed- you must be fouling them left and right.

    I'd also inspect your connection at the Air Mass MEter just to be sure that's not part of the problem. Don't plug or unplug it with the key on.
    --
    Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 228K, 88 744GLE- 212K, 91 244 183K-SOLD! Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 239K, 88 245DL, 246K








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    RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

    You don't mention if you are driving a turbo or not. If you are check the turbo hoses carefully by removing them and inspecting for any thin spots. You will probably find they are leaking especially when under boost. The same thing might happen with a normally aspirated engine but it is more crucial with a turbo. Its a shame the hoses aren't available from anyone but the dealer (be sure you know your turbo make) cause they love to charge an arm and a leg for them. The only good thing is that you can fix it yourself.








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    RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

    I have been chasing a similar condition in my 240 for a while now and still haven't licked it. But my solution might not be yours anyway. Yours doesn't sound lack of air or spark, which can both mimic rich mixture. Your problem could be a leaky injector (as could mine), but I don't know how to test that. It could also be your cold start injector and I hit on a way to exclude that as my problem. I pinched off the fuel line between it and the fuel rail and it made no difference for me, but it might for you.

    --
    Andy '91 745 184K, '89 244 134K, '87 245 lost the rust battle at 225K mi








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      RICH! (The engine, not me) 700

      Injectors may be the next logical step.

      there's a post somewhere on here where you can take them out and make your own pressurized cleaner with a few simple parts from Home Depot , a Schraeder valve, and a compressor or compressed air tank.

      Someone also posted using BG 44k to thoroughly clean the injectors, you'll find it on here.

      As the injector ages the spray pattern fails, the injector dosen't close all the time -- and others. The spray pattern should be atomizing not a laser line of gas.

      There are companies that will do "in car" cleaning of injectors for like $25 per injector and that includes backflushing of the fuel rails.

      Just some ideas.







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