Thanks to all of you who responded to my inquiries about the M47 tranny.

I am planning on doing a "tune-up" soon: replace plugs/wires, timing belt and front engine seals, crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer, and oil change. I'm planning on using Bosch platinum plugs and wires from Auto Zone. Anyone have suggestions about this? Also planning on using Valvoline Max Life 10-30.

To try to alleviate the transmission "slippage", I'm going to change the fluid and adjust the clutch pedal as suggested. Anyone have preferences as to which type of fluid to use in the tranny? Is it worth using a premium ATF, or would the generic be sufficient? What would be the signs of a more serious problem?

Thanks.

My thoughts...

As told by many on this board - avoid the Platinum Plugs. I switched to NKG Copper plugs and they work Great. I use Bougicord wires - avoid the other stuff.

I use the High Mileage (Semi-Synthetic) by Mobil-1. Use ONLY Mann Oil Filters.

The timing belt and front seals - call Groton.

The Tranny fluid - use MTL Redline. The tranny is rated at holding 1.6 quarts. I try to dump at least 1.8 quarts in. You will need a pump that will allow you to get in there and do that. I got a great siphon pump (draw back on plunger-push forward to squirt) at Checker Auto parts for about $7.00 They also have them at IPD.

Good luck. The Redline MTL makes a HUGE difference.

Todd :-)
--
'90 245 183k

Another vote against the platinum plugs.

I recommend synthetic oil for engines if you're going to keep the car a long, long time. But if you're going to sell it within the next 5 years or so it's probably not worth the extra expense.

But for your tranny (and differential), I would definitely recommend going synthetic, since the fluid gets changed so infrequently. Especially the M47. And "overfill" the tranny by jacking it up on the side of the fill plug as you fill it. This will get a few more cups of fluid in than normal, which is beneficial as the M47 has a minor design flaw of not enough lubrication.

If you're doing your 60,000 mile maintenance, don't forget to repack the front wheel bearings, resolder the fuel pump relay, clean the flame trap, replace the diff fluid, clean up the electrical ground points, bleed the brakes (if needed), change the fuel & air filters, clean throttle body and IAC, etc. etc. A long, but productive weekend of work....

While you are under the hood/bonnet pull the distributor cap and check the interior for carbon tracing or dirt and the condition of the contacts. Also give the rotor a good look. Both are inexpensive to replace and can cause grief when worn. If it's likely the fuel filter has a lot of miles on it, that's another preventive maintenance item.

Oil change interval depends on driving conditions. Mostly highway driving would qualify as "easy" miles. I'd go with Volvo's longer recommended interval there, especially with today's oils. Short trips or cold weather mean increased frequency of changes.

In our 1983's owner's handbook, the recommended non-Turbo oil change interval is 7500mi or three months for "adverse" (short trips, cold weather, etc.) and 7500mi or six months for non-adverse conditions. The 940 manual calls for 5000/6 months or 10,000/12 months change intervals under these conditions. In our moderate-to-hot climate and mostly highway driving, I use Mobil-1 synthetic 0W40 and 10,000mi change intervals. Reduces oil disposal, filter purchases and disposal, and the amount of my time under the cars.
--
Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)

No platinum plugs. Use Bosch super plugs, OEM. Use OEM wires. The French ones, I dont know the spelling. Bourigard or something? Valvoline 10W-30 is the best choice you can make, but I would shy away from synthetic. I have run Valvoline 10W-30 for year in my cars and I haven't had any more luck with engine life with synthetic, unless you live in a -20 climate, where synthetic will improve cold starts. Mann filters are good, and so are WIX filters. So I guess just change the oil every 3,000 religiously. The manual says every 5,000 but I dont buy that. Use a good filter and good oil. Using good oil with a bad filter or vice versa defeats the purpose. Stay away from all these platinum plugs and aftermarket wires (Wells). Use good OEM parts and enjoy the 30 or 40 years of swede tank driving.

wixx makes NAPA filters

The proper oil to use in the M47 is Type F auto tranny fluid, nor Dexron. The synchro discs material is designed to work best with one typw of fluid.

You need only use a good brand of fluid but many, myself included have used Redline MTL instead of type F and find the shifting is smoother.

When you go to fill the tranny. First be sure the top fill plug can be removed before you remove the drain plug. On the M47 the fill plugs sometimes are frozen in and are very hard to get out. Use a 6-point socket only on that plug. (Don't ask me how I know about this).

Many recommend raising the car on the drivers side before refilling the tranny. This allows you to overfill by about 1/3 to 1/2 quart. The reason to do this is to get more oil up to an upper bearing which tends to be under-lubricated.

Your comment on slippage makes me wonder. The manual transmission cannot slip.if you feel slippage it must be the clutch. Hopefully adjusting it will correct the problem.

As far as the tuneup, I agree that NGK plugs and Bougicord wires are the ones to use. Mann filters are the best but when I don't have one of these on hand I use Purolater. There are web sites which show these are good filters.

Is the harmonic balancer bad? I wouldn't replace this unless it was. They're fairly expensive.

Listen to McDuck... platinum plugs suck... and many on this Board, including our Volvos, agree.

Use Bougicord wires... again many will tell you that there is no substitute. Some will say otherwise. I have had many quality issues with other wire brands. Personally, I have tried many types including Bosch... they all stink... but, in a pinch what can you do?

You will also get a ton of weighty, pun intended, opinion on oil brand and viscosity. I switch by season from 10/30 to 10/40. Since I change my oil like a freak, I have stopped using full synthetic in favor of Mobil semi-synthetic. But, I never use any filter other than Mann. And, if you haven't, score a magnetic drain plug.

FCP Groton is a great place for parts & their service is top notch. Get what you need through them at www.fcpgroton.com

2 cents is all I got, Jon

Platinums suck, others have complained a decrease in performance. Just stick to the cheap NGKs, and gap then to spec. As for wires, yah Bougicord is OEM and fcpgroton sells them cheap. I once has Bosch and was happy with them too, but if you're buying just buy bougicord and be carefree for the many years to come.
For oil, stick to a good oil supplier like Castol or something, just avoid the crap. Use Mann filters, stay away from the Fram junk. The filter is more important than the oil. If you put a good synthetic oil with a crappy filter, what's the point.

Greg Mustang

Forget the Platinums; use standard plugs(Bosch, NGK, ND, etc.)
--
Jim McDonald