Randy,
As I am always stealing your Brake Junction Block photo, let me offer you the following write-up on the Tank Pump fuse. You are the test subject, for something I might use as a "canned" response, if it will help someone.
Let me know if it works for you, or assumes too much, confuses you, etc.
-----------------------------------------------
"Fun With The Tank Pump Fuse"
The Tank Pump Fuse can be very helpful that is, if your Brick is a 200 series, and you have a Test Light or a good Digital Multimeter.
Depending on the type of Fuel Injection, the Tank Pump Fuse will be #4 (LH 2.2, 2.4) or #5 (K-jet, LH 2.0)
When looking at the fuses, the unfused or "Hot" side is on the left, as shown below.
Hot (+) side *<<(FUSE)>> fused () side goes> to the tank pump
* Voltage at (or applied to) the Hot side goes DIRECTLY to power the Main Pump. (This point SHOULD normally be at +12V whenever the FI Relay is energized.)
At the Fuse Holder, you can:
Verify Fuel Injection (aka Fuel Pump) Relay operation (Test Light or Voltmeter on Fuse 4 input)
Test ("hot wire") either Fuel Pump (or both, with fuse 4 in place. Get +12V from fuse 6 input side)
Use the hot wire as a No-Start diagnostic, or to run pumps for pressure tests, etc.
Measure each pump's Current "draw" (requires Ammeter function, 10 amps max is OK)
Test and measure the O2 heater resistance (LH 2.4)
--
Bruce Young '93 940-NA (current) 240s (one V8) 140s 122s since '63.
|