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Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

The 242 our daughter wants to keep has a cracked windshield. I may buy a used windshield and install it. Does anyone have any tips to offer?
--
john








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    Enjoy the drive better with anti-UV glass. (Solex) 200

    At some point in the early/mid 1990s, the autoglass industry started putting chemicals in the glass that eliminate 98% of the UV light as it passes through the various glass windows on the car (including the front windshield). Not only does this reduce the heat buildup in the car, it increases the longevity of the interior, -and it's much easier on your eyes. I can instantly tell the difference (in the daytime) when I'm driving a car with and without UV glass. There's a 'harshness' and glare that strains your eyes when the UV is not filtered out.

    When shopping for a replacement windshield (new or use), the word "SOLEX" printed in the glass tag will guarentee that you've found a good one with the anti-UV filters. My '87 240 still has the stock SCANEX (laminated safety glass) and TEMPEX (tempered) glass for the front windshield and the side windows respectively. At some point this summer, I'm hoping to replace the front windshield and the driver's side window with updated SOLEX glass.

    Lastly, if you have somebody install the glass for you, tell them it's a '93 240 since the '91-'93 cars got the improved flush-mounted molding (and it's actually waterproof). Many people, including myself, have sealing issues with the older 'clip' style molding. Note: Nothing was changed on the car, the window frame is still the same. Only the mouting that comes attached to the glass was changed for the '91-'93 style so it can be easily fit to any 240 throughout the '75-'93 production.

    God bless,
    Fitz Fitzgerald.
    --
    '87 Blue 245, NA 234K








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    Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

    Do a search for my name to call up old posts of mine. I reported on this repair in great deatil a couple of years ago when I did my junkyard '84 244GL with a salvaged window using urethane and the older style chrome trim (as opposed to the newer rubber gasket upgrade).

    I still say changing out the windshield is easier than changing front struts and nothing to be feared or farmed out to "professionals" due to lack of confidence or "hassle".

    Here is one such post:

    http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=615963
    --
    'Can't understand why people abort Volvos, either'








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    Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

    A good tool I've used in the past is an old hood cable, or something like a lawnmower throttle cable so you've got a strong handle on one end of a wire- a second person pulling with vise-grips on the outside is a big help too.

    But really, for the aggravation involved, I'd shop the glass stores- trry to find the best price. Say that the otehr guys offered $10 less than they really did... I bet you can have it done for $150-175. I know it's not cheap but it beats the $300 plus they list it at.

    Another thing too, is that it really helps if it's a warm day- if it's not, at least run the car on Defrost, max heat, for an hour to soften that glue up.
    --
    Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 228K, 88 744GLE- 212K, 91 244 183K-SOLD! Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 239K, 88 245DL, 246K








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    Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

    I replaced mine with used. The windshield at the yard came out beautifully with piano wire, high f in 20 minutes.( golf tees worked well for prying pressure)

    My existing windshield, which had been installed previously by a chain, had been installed not with butyl tape sealant, but with urethane. The wire would not cut into the urethane; it had set up like concrete. I worked for 4 or 5 hours to remove existing urethane and glass, an inch at a time with a chisel and hammer. A real mess, glass shards everywhere, in and out of the car, hair, (hat and glasses on), hands(gloves on) it was everywhere.

    Prior installation = about 150.00 IFRC
    DIY installation = windshield 35.00
    2 x butyl tape 10.00
    reused clips
    4-5 hrs.
    Good pluck.








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    Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

    Just had someone ask if I had my windshield polished - in the 84. Couldn't believe how clear and unpitted the glass is, but it was just replaced with the 91-93 style window four years ago. It cost me $200 on a Saturday with an inspection deadline Monday, and I was happy to toss the old trim in the dumpster. I've heard prices as low as $125.

    Option before letting it go to deadline was junkyard glass. I kept checking them out in the yard looking for a decent one after reading extensively about the swap process. Big part of the debate was butyl or urethane, and how to do certain stuff without a helper- though that is not a problem at your house. If you decide to do it, I'll mail you my unused clip kit.
    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore








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    Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

    See
    http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=704770
    For suggestions
    --
    1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans








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      Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

      From the other thread:

      "removing the winsheild without breaking it is a serious chore. You need some piano wire or something thin and really strong which you feed through a point in the glue and then (with a partner) slowly pull it along the whole windshield. Of course, before that you have to take off all the trim, which isn't that simple either, and you have to get a clip kit if your car is older than a '90. What I did on my car a while back when I had these same rust holes was to just pull up (very carefully) the sections of trim where the rust was and then grind them down, paint them with por-15, and then I filled them with silicone I think or something of the like that was water tight. Then I covered it with body filler and painted, and it hasn't leaked since in about a year. I would try that first, before going to the hassle of taking out the whole windshield. Well, best of luck!
      Nate Gundy"

      That's pretty much it. Remove the trim, take a thin wire (like piano wire) and thread it through, with a friend on the other side move it all around the windshield, pop it out (from the inside, with your feet), clean the gunk (glue), put down new glue, put in the new windshield and gently press down all around to make a good seal, replace the trim, and cross your fingers that the glue was solid and the new windshield doesn't leak. I've only done this once, many moons ago on my then car, a '79 Plymouth Horizon. The friend "helping" me actually had a parttime job at a glass shop installing car windshields (we were students). So I guess I can't say that I actually replaced it, but I was there the whole time as he did it. The used windshield was from a junkyard, the interesting thing there was that I got two prices: One for if I removed it myself, cash in advance and if I broke it, too bad, the other price for if they took it out, guaranteed to be intact. I didn't break it when I took it out (with a different friend).








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        Any tips on replacing a 240 windshield 200

        Hah, it's kinda exciting to be quoted...I don't remeber it happening all that often. Glad my posts are of some help on occasion!

        Nate Gundy
        --
        '86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/21mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/







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