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driveline clunk part 2 200

posted by  lakito on  Tue Mar 16 20:38 CST 2004
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hi,

so i checked under the car while a friend was changing gears between park/neutral and D or R and back and forth. there was a clunk in both R or D every now and then. i noticed the rearmost u-joint would turn and then the clunk would happen from within the diff somewhere. do i need a new u-joint or do i need a new diff or do i need to flush and drain the fluid? i thought volvo difffs were meant to be indestructible!

chez








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    driveline clunk part 2 200

    uid 13809's pic
    posted by  Alex Z on  Sun Mar 21 17:45 CST 2004
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    last visit: Thu Oct 3 04:30 CST 2013
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    Are you sure it's coming from the rear of the car or not?

    My first thought would be the motor mounts are toast and letting the engine and/or transmission clunk around a bit.

    --
    alex

    '89 765T, 170k miles








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    driveline clunk part 2 200

    posted by  darmstrong on  Thu Mar 18 04:33 CST 2004
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    How are you trailing arm and torque rod bushings?

    Try to notice if there's any up and down movement of the pinion flange when this occurs. If so, the bushings aren't holding the rear axle in place, so the axle casing itself is rotating. The sound then would be the bolt through one of the bushings clunking against the outer shell (ie. bushing rubber is destroyed).








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      driveline clunk part 2 200

      posted by  lakito on  Thu Mar 18 13:02 CST 2004
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      i just checked out my diff. i can reproduce the noise (not as loud though) when i turn the axle flange in either direction. there is only about 1/8th of a rotation in either direction. i checked the fluid and it was all there but it looked cruddy so maybe i'll change this soon.

      any ideas what is actually causing the noise inside the diff?

      thanks,
      chez








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    driveline clunk part 2 200

    posted by  Cliff Pope on  Wed Mar 17 01:39 CST 2004
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    You can check the U/J by grasping the shaft and the flange on the dif and trying to twist them. Watch carefully to see where the movement occurs prior to the clunk.
    Can you reproduce the clunk from within the diff by twisting the flange?
    There should ideally be no more than 1/8 turn of free movement, but up to 1/4 is acceptable. If the unit is otherwise OK, with no rumbling or strange noises then a clunk is just normal.
    If the power take up is jerky this will cause a clunk.








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      driveline clunk part 2 200

      posted by  lakito on  Wed Mar 17 23:56 CST 2004
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      this clunk sounds like a hammer hitting some metal. i haven;t had time to check the flange/rear u-joint properly. i don;t think it is a normal sound though. i will let you know how i go with the freeplay in the next few days.

      thanks,
      chez








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        driveline clunk part 2 200

        uid 18083's pic
        posted by  lucid on  Sun Mar 21 02:55 CST 2004
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:31 CST 2014
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        this clunk sounds like a hammer hitting some metal.

        That does sound like it might be inside the diff, but excluding the rear u-joint itself (and, hopefully, not worn pinion/ring gears), the main suspects will be something that lets the rear end rotate too much — either the Torque Rod or Trailing Arm bushings, or both. And the TABs are hard to see.

        The noise comes from the driveline turns more than it should before it encounters the resistance of moving the car. You can simulate this "encounter" (in reverse) by parking on the level, setting the tran in 1st, then rocking the car back and forth, rotating a rear wheel by hand (it's just a matter of an inch or two either way).

        This is easier done with two people—the stouter one on the wheel and the skinny one on his belly in the dust to get a real good look at each of the 6 bushings with a good flashlight ("torch"?).

        Good luck,
        --
        Bruce Young
        '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.







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