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I'm wondering if you managed to get the top bolt in without engaging the nut and ended up slipping to the side of the nut. When I was installing the top bolt in my '95 945 I don't recall that there was enough play to do that, but I may well be wrong. If your replacement shock had a narrower top bushing and fit sloppily compared to the tight fitting factory shock then that could be what happened. You'll have to try to back it out, which may not be easy if the threads don't engage against something otherwise I don't know how you'd be able to pry up under the bolt head as you turn.
I think it would have taken some real effort to strip the threads. It's almost impossible to engage the nut at an angle, so you can rule that out. I think you'd have to get fairly carried away driving the bolt in to mash the tip of the bolt and then use a impact driver to spread the damage through the nut. Mind you, I don't use a sledge hammer and an impact driver to install bolts.
It is definitely possible that the nut has broken loose and is now spinning. I had that happen on a 140. The symptom was clunking in the rear end. In that case, and I presume the 940, the nut is welded inside the channel during chassis assembly and is not accessible. They had to cut the chassis from behind the rear seat to make an access flap so they could remove the nut and weld it back in place.
So, all I can really say is good luck. When I attacked those bolts to install ipd overload coils I decided that if my shocks ever needed changing that I would let a shop do it.
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Dave -not to be confused with a real expert, just goofing around at this
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