I'm sure this question is on here at least a dozen times but I don't have time to search through them all. Maybe someone can help. Was driving my 244 down the street when it stalled and now it won't start. It has 318,000 miles so far and I'm a little late on an oil change. It has a new starter installed three months ago. Not sure if any of this is relevant or not. The car will come on but it just won't turn over and start. It didn't buck or jerk or anything, the gas just stopped working and then the lights came on in the dash. HELP

I cranked it over and the camshaft turned so it might not be a belt problem, all the fuses in the fuse box are new....Unfortunately I think I might have to tow it to my shop. There goes my tax refund!

Have you checked the wiring in your engine compartment. I had the same no start this past summer with my '84. The wire rot that happens to mid 80's Volvos could be your problem. Check the wires running from your coil. My brown wire just slid out of the sheathing after a light tug. Spliced it and my car started right up. Found all the wires by the grey firewall connector with crumbling insulation and corrosion. You mentioned some hesitation earlier. This could be also be loose spade connectors at the coil. Hope we can save your refund for you.

Good Luck, Erich Zappe
84 244GL
84 244DL
83 242T
Ottawa, Canada

I doubt it's the alternator/battery — "... just stopped working and then the lights came on in the dash" — which is normal (engine stops with key on–lights come on).

Quick guess would be broken or stripped timing belt. Take the oil cap off and watch the camshaft while someone cranks it over with the key. If shaft doesn't turn, the belt is broken.

If camshaft does turn, further tests are needed—post back.

Also check/replace the 25 Amp fuse near the coil, and Fuse #12 in the fuse box (spin it to clean the contacts).
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

The original post implied that the engine wouldn't even turn over when the key was turned. A broken timing belt or bad 25 amp fuse will still allow the engine to be cranked if the battery is strong enough.
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Mike W., '79 242GT (project car), '85 245DL (daily driver 1), '87 245 DL (daily driver 2), '90 244DL (son's project car), '91 744T (daily driver 3), '92 245DL (parts car), '94 944T (wifemobile), Largo, FL

The original post said, "The car will come on but it just won't turn over and start."

What was implied in the the phrases, "come on" and "turn over and start", is open to interpretation but clearly refers to two events

We interpreted those events differently. To me, "come on" meant that something happened. But the next thing (expected), "turn over and start" didn't happen.

After some thought, I decided he meant it would crank ("come on"), but wouldn't fire ("turn over and start").

My post was meant to steer Craig away from chasing an alternator problem, and to suggest what I felt were plausible tips, based on my interpretation of his rather ambiguous description.

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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

Sorry about the original ambiguous post, all. To reiterate, It will "crank" but it won't "fire." A little more info: the past month when flooring it, the car has kind of studdered a bit and been a bit hesitant when it usually just takes off, when passing or merging onto a freeway and such. I don't know if this info is helpful but thank you for all your help so far, I will try and troubleshoot some of the suggestions that have been posted. Thank you!

Thanks for the reply Craig,

Now we'll all be on the same page as we pursue this. I'd suggest that you start a new thread, with a brief post to restate the failure and summarize what does/doesn't work right now.

This will put you back up to the head of the line, and hopefully get some responses that zero in on the Spark vs Fuel issue. (As long as it cranks and the belt is still in time, it has to be either spark or fuel.)

I'm sure you'll get tips on checking for spark (which MUST happen before the Fuel system will operate), but I'm going to suggest that you "force" the fuel pumps to run as you crank. If that doesn't work, then we can go to spark testing. Here's what you do:

Connect a jumper wire from the Left (hot side) Fuse 7 contact to the Fuse 5 hot side contact. There will be a brief spark (not dangerous), and both the in-tank and Main pump should run immediately.

See if it will start while the pumps are running, and let us know.

Good luck,
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

The list of potential problems could fill several pages. If it died while you were driving and won't even crank, I'd suspect your alternator. It has probably stopped charging the battery, which was gradually drained by the current draw from the fuel pumps. Now you don't have enough to crank the engine. I'll bet it will start with a jump, but won't stay running for very long after. Jump start it and check the voltage at the big terminal on the back of the alternator. Should be at least 13-14V while the engine is running. Bet it won't be.

Jump start it, check your alternator output and report back.
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Mike W., '79 242GT (project car), '85 245DL (daily driver 1), '87 245 DL (daily driver 2), '90 244DL (son's project car), '91 744T (daily driver 3), '92 245DL (parts car), '94 944T (wifemobile), Largo, FL

If it is the alternator and there is a good chance it is, the idiot light (DL) should of come on long before it died or the amp meter (GL) should of shown negative amps. If it's not the alternator, check the positive battery cable where it connects to the battery post clamp. This is a place for high resistance in old Volvos. It can be cut off and the clamp replaced with a new one or the whole cable replaced. A bad cable/clamp joint could keep it from cranking even with a jump. Check your battery water level too (if your battery has fill plugs). jp

My 82 245 did the same thing. Driving down the road and ....nothing. No idiot light warning either. I ended up putting battery and alternator in.

I put a used spare battery in it to get me home. If you are not too far from home that can work for you too.

Good luck.

Steve

It's hard to believe your battery and alternator failed simultaneously. The chain auto parts stores like AutoZone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will load test batteries and alternators so money isn't spent unnecessarily. jp