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omigawd!... rusticles and rattles! 1800

not too bad and i was aware of it when i bought the car. i guess i would like to solicit inputs on some of the techniques the forum members apply.
some rust related items on my '73 es:
1.rust on the frame immediately below the glass on the rear hatch.
2.when rainnng, water seems to run down the a post and leaks in at the top foward part of the door. also, some rust around the old weather stripping on the bottom of the doors.
3. some surface rust on the wheels.
...
when i had the u joints replaced recently, the mechanic commented on how good the underside looks concerning rust, so i'm happy about that.
...
would like to get inputs on what some members do with existing rust. (grind it off and seal the remaining structure?) i guess i could take it to a body shop and get an estimate, but nothing is cheap anymore.
...
also, not a big problem, but when traversing bumps at moderate speeds, i get a few rattles. would appreciate comments on the most common source of most rattles.
thanks in advance.
flaps








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    omigawd!... rusticles and rattles! 1800

    Rust, as you probably know, is the bane of this car. Generally the rust you see is about 1/4 of the rust that actually is present, so it is critical to deal with the problem quickly.

    You mention a spot below the glass that has rusted. If this is the area where the rubber seal rests, the rust is usually because the two tiny drains in that area are blocked. You need to remove the seal, clean out the drains, then fix the rust. If the rust is minor and hidden by the seal, I would just grind it to bare metal and prime and paint. Or, if you want to be more aggressive you can order a product called POR that will keep it from ever rusting again. If the rust is beyond the seal or has made holes in the metal you really should put in new metal. You can do this yourself with a wire-feed welder if you feel brave or have the expertise. Other options, though less reliable, are to cover the holes with metal that is held in with pop-rivets or to cover them with a good fiberglass-type body filler. Most body fillers you get in the local chain parts store won't work well for this application because they actually absorb water. An automotive paint store should have a better product if you decide to go this way.

    The rust at the bottom of the doors is likely from the same cause. The doors (and the sills below the doors) have small weep holes to allow water to drain out. They are easily blocked with dirt that accumulates over the years. The fix is the same. In this case, though, the rust is likely coming from the inside out. You want to remove the inner door panel and treat the inside bottom area of the door thoroughly.








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    omigawd!... rusticles and rattles! 1800

    Once you have cleared all the drains causing backup and rust, and resealed any glass-- for out-of-sight areas, plain old raw linseed oil sprayed on a clean surface will go a long way. It will not hurt rubber, can be applied over dry and clean surface rust, and remains tacky/flexible in a wide range of temperatures. Friend of mine did his '64 Ford when new, and it has never rusted anywhere, despite a wide range of climates during 25 years in the military and the last 15 years in a damp and snowy climate. Just renew wherever you have to break loose a bolt or other fitting from time to time. (compare the smell of the linseed oil to the smell of the Ziebart job--same stuff, but without the proprietary coloring and other additives)
    --
    We have met the enemy and they is us. [Pogo] S70 cop car : Rough Rider tires& suspension, Walmart fog lights, eBay speakers, ambiance by Pall Mall, trim by Le Duc d'Tape, 8-channel THD by OEM amps







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