Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

I am planning on doing the timing belt and tensioner soon (and all other belts).

Last timing belt was done at 92K miles by PO along with water pump.
The car has now almost 160K miles. I have removed the timing belt cover and belt seems alright -- not frayed, no cracks. It's a Volvo belt. I still think I should change it as preventive maintenance since Volvo calls for 50K miles interval.

Water pump is working fine. Should I change it anyway while I am doing the timing belt? Or should I just wait until the water pump becomes a problem?
It seems customary to change water pump when doing timing belt for most cars, what about the 240, does that make sense?

Thanks for your input.
--
'89 244DL M47 158K miles








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    Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

    You may read different but I have 240K on my Water pump. I'll wait until it weeps.
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me








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    Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

    I think the determining factor would be whether or not the pump is a Volvo pump. The aftermarket pumps should be changed as a measure of preventative maintenance, every other belt change, in my opinion. Volvo pumps should stay on the car until you have problems with them. They can last a very long time.








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    Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

    The timing belt must be changed. The water pump is an largely unrelated set of operations and should stay unless leaky, wobbly (!) or noisy. If you resist overtightening the alternator belts, water pumps really last, especially the Volvo pumps.








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      Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

      Ok thanks.
      SO leave Water pump alone until it becomes a problem and don't overtighten the alternator belt when replacing it.

      How to tell if the water pump is noicy? What kind of noice does it make?
      I do hear a lot of noice from the engine compartment... sounds like a diesel engine to me. Not sure if it's the valve, the fuel injectors. Didn't consider the pump though.
      --
      '89 244DL M47 158K miles








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        Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

        As soon as you have the water pump V-belt off, you should be able to spin the pump's pulley around. If it's loose or noisy, change it. If it's a Volvo pump and it spins tight and quiet, don't bother changing it.








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    Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

    My experience with water pumps is they last around 150K miles. Based on this you may want to replace just the belt this time and water pump and belt next time. If you just changed anti-freeze you will loose some when the water pump is removed. I would do the water pump right before anti-freeze change flush.








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      Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

      Thanks Yama.
      If water pump was to collapse before my next timing belt.
      1) When doing just water pump, do I need to "mess" again with timing belt?
      2) Any other belts?

      Thanks.
      --
      '89 244DL M47 158K miles








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        Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

        Its been a while since I've changed a water pump but a believe all the drive belts get removed and the cover for the timing belt. The timing belt doesn't need to be removed. When doing a water pump its a good time to change the thermostat.








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          Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

          Thanks Yama.
          By thermostat, you mean the 10USD coolant thermostat that's in the engine block where the upper radiator hose connects (right below the oil filler cap on my B230)?
          I just replaced it, by temp gage was not reading correctly in my dash, now it's fine.
          --
          '89 244DL M47 158K miles








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            Timing belt -- water pump also? 200

            Spin the water pump on its own when the belts are removed. It should feel nice and free, no noises, no end-float. If so, I'd leave it. I am just about to replace mine. It's done 290,000 miles, but has a bit of movement and is starting to seep a bit from the bearing.

            If yours feels OK I'd leave it. Take a look at the joint between the top of the pump and the head. There is a rubber seal there which gets soft if any oil has been leaking from the front of the camshaft.

            When/if you do the pump on its own be careful not to drop one of the small bolts or nuts down into the lower timing cover.







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