Hello,

I have a 122 which has been converted from an automatic to a manual shift gearbox some time ago. The transmission mount crossmember is of course about five to six inches further back than it would be for a manual, so the previous owners jurry-rigged an extender system of a thick peice of metal that bolts into the auto's tranny mount cross-member and extends forward to match up with the connection to the manual tranny. Obviously this is far from an optimal situation in my mind, so eventually I want to firm it up and figure out a better system.

The question I throw out is, does anybody out there have some creative ideas as to what I could do with the extra space of the former auto tranny housing under there, as far as putting in a different tranny or an overdrive unit? I'm not adverse to maybe a radical swap for a Ford T or Sentra tranny, but probably tend towards volvo parts only, like an M41+OD. I'm just thinking that I might be missing some creative options that somebody else may have run into having had an auto-tranny model that's been converted like mine...

Another thought I had was that I recently found a real cheap deal on a complete 240 with a FI-B20 and a tranny with an OD. What would be the obstacles to using such an engine and tranny combo to swap in and replace my present B18 with SU's?
When I looked at all the engine bay stuff in the 240, all the extra stuff looked kind of bewildering to get stuffed into my 122. There's something I like a lot about the elegance and simplicity of my present B18, and the manual-choke lever inside is an interesting quaint conversation peice for passengers. So many people my age don't even know what the heck such a thing is. I like to think that it's also somewhat of an anti-joyride theft device, because you have to know how to use and adjust one.

I'm probably not interested in super-tweaking this car for extra horse-power also down the road, but I would definately like to chop of some of the loud RPM sound I get cruising at todays highway speeds; Thus the enticing idea of the overdrive...

Thanks all! I hope I was clear enough,

Theo

Can you get me some pictures of how it looks right now. Thinking aobut doing that conversion on my volvo

From auto to manual...? As I was saying... it's a rather sub-optimal solution right now on mine but it works. It's probably just wise to get custom welding done to move the support up to where it would be in a regular manual-version chasis.

Mine holds and doesn't vibrate much at all, I'm just afraid of going off rally ramps and such...(joking) I'll see if I can get a picture.

Theo

Hi,
I've always found swapping to a different engine/tranny brand causes more problems than you ever envisage at the start.

I've done the swap from B18 to B20 with O/D and it's a straight drop in. Changing your car to run the FI isn't entirely simple (not too impossible either) but there is no need. Just pull off all the FI stuff down to and including the manifold. I assume you have a onepiece inlet and exhaust manifold, so you'll need to get one of the Volvo aluminium inlet manifolds and bolt on your twin SUs. You keep the FI exhaust manifold. Put your old fuel pump from the B18 on the B20, hook everything up and away you go. You will probably have to change the needles in the SUs, but all pretty simple.

I'm not sure about prop shafts and gearbox lengths, but I think the M41 and the auto box were about the same length and used the same cross-member mounting points. Either way, a fairly simple fabrication job.

You'll need a new propshaft to get the right length. The 240 shaft gearbox flange will be bigger than that on your current shaft, so drop in the new engine and box, measure the distance betweent the gearbox flange and the diff flange carefully - about 3 times to be sure - and take both shafts (from the 240 and 122) to the local prop shop and get them to make up exactly what you want.

Have a great time with it, and remember to check everything several times before committing to it!

Regards

John

John,

Excellent strategy; I hadn't even thought of that avenue of saving the SU's for use on a swapped-in B20+FI.

I was hoping for some way to avoid having to get custom welding done for moving the old support cross-member, but it looks like that's what I'll have to do eventually.

T

The M41/OD uses the exact same crossmember as the M40. Normally it's an easy bolt-in, requiring only a little wiring and shortening of the drive shaft. With your modified crossmember, I can't say. The OD adds about 40 lbs behind the mount, so you'll need it to be even more solid.

The B20F in that 240 can be easily converted to carbs. Retaining its K-jet injection is a much harder trick, although it's been done.

Most '75 240s used the M40 or M41. If it's an M41, no reason you can't use it -- your existing shift lever and top cover swap right on. It has a slightly lower first gear than earlier M41s, but that shouldn't bother anything in daily driving.

A few used the M45/M46 with a "year-only" bellhousing. This is worth real $$$. have a good look at what's in there...

Thanks Phil!,

I'm not sure what you mean by the "year-only" housing... do you mean they only made these bell-housing matches from the B20 mated to the M45/M46s during one year? If so, what's the story with that?

Do M45/M46s have a fifth gear internal?

Also, when I climb under these rigs, what are the identifying marks to differentiate between M40/M41s? ... M45/M46s?

Theo