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1993 Rex Regina with a 1995 LH engine, no start update.
The starting fluid test failed with the down pipe plug out.. Good spark, fully charged battery, but no start after several tries. http://brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=738618&show_all=1
Considering this is a 1995 engine, and assuming it had Bosch LH, I was comparing my LH cars to the Rex/Regina and noticed that the fuel system on the 1993 with Rex /Regina did have the correct fuel injectors, blue, but likely the incorrect FP Regulator. The part number of the Bosch FP Regulator is 0 280 160 294, the same part number as the one on the LH cars and on FCP Groton’s site. According to FCPG the correct OEM part is (non Bosch?) 6842410. Am I on to something, Rex/Regina owners? Could this be the reason I am getting 17MPG instead of my normal 24-26MPG when the car was running?
I took off the fuel filler cap and listened to the pump. There is a nice sound to the pump except for a gurgling sound, a bubbling sound like blowing through a straw, not present on the other cars. Approximately 12 gallons in the fuel tank. Is this the problem that Chris Herbst mentioned? I am getting some fuel into the engine but I don’t know how much.
From Chris Herbst: “Another possibility is that the in-tank pump busted it's hose between pump and top of tank. That really ruins the pressure, but sometimes doesn't affect the volume if you only do a fuel flow sight test with an open rail or something. (I can't remember the configuration of the Regina pump offhand, but I think I remember it as having a vulnerable hose in the location described.”
To sum it up, here are two possibilities, poor gas mileage due to the incorrect FP Regulator and little fuel due to an in tank hose problem or just a bad fuel pump.
New crank sensor installed
Exchanged FPR and fuel injector relay
New fuel filter and air cleaner
No codes
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Tom F Three 940s. Lien holder on two more (the kid's). Rust in pieces, '78 245
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I just purchase a 93, 940 with the Rex/Regina and it had a bad regulator, I got 14.5 mpg from Albany to Watkins Glen. I was lucky thet my Sister lives about 1.7 miles away from Joe Ototie that has a bunch of Volvos in his yard. I went over and pulled one for my car, changed the oil, and ended up getting on the return trip to Richmond, 27.4 mpg. When I got home to order one, nobody had the Rex. fuel pressure regulator, so I ended up ordering one from Volvo.
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posted by
someone claiming to be rcsammy
on
Sat Jan 24 09:20 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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As long as the pressure regulator is functioning properly by controlling the fuel pressure to the system specification, it does NOT make any difference which regulator is on the fuel rail. Both systems run at the same pressure. I am running Bosch regulator(and injectors) on Regina system and average 25mpg. You may have a bad regulator but until you test the system pressure you won't know where to begin to look for problem. Good luck,rcs.
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Thanks for the FP regulator answer.
I agree, the fuel pressure test should be next. I see that the high pressure fuel line hose end has a threaded fitting that that screws to the metal line that feeds the fuel rail. If I can find some matching fittings, I can rig a T with a pressure gage. I have done some plumbing, but not with H.P. fuel lines. This is new territory for me.
Thinking out loud, I can test the fuel pressure from the pump without a T, and test the FP Regulator with a T installed. I do not quite understand the test rig in the FAQ. Is the fuel line to fuel rail male/female pipe thread an odd ball size?
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Tom F Three 940s. Lien holder on two more (the kid's). Rust in pieces, '78 245
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"I do not quite understand the test rig in the FAQ."
Tom, if you mean the FAQ write up below, that one is for the CI (Continuous Injection) system, aka K-jet. I think your 900 should have a standard "Schrader Valve" fitting that will take a Fuel Pressure gauge from Autozone or Pep Boys (about $35 for mine).
FROM FAQ:
Fuel Pressure Test Tool. At last check, Volvo wanted $600 for the pressure rig to test control, system, and residual pressures. I built one for much less ... here's how. Parts needed:
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Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current), '80 GLE V8 (Sold), '86 240dl, '85 244 ti, '83 245t
'76 244 (R.I.P at 255k), 73 142 (98K), '71 144 (ex circle track car)
Used '70 144 from '78 to '92, New 144 from '67 to '78, Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
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I found the Schrader valve mounted to the fuel rail. A pressure gage attached to Schrader valve will test the system pressure, and if it checks out properly, all it fine...on to the next. If the pressure is low, wouldn’t you still need to isolate and test the fuel pump pressure to determine if the fuel pump is good or bad?
Bad Schrader valve pressure = bad fuel pump *or* bad fuel pressure regulator.
Good fuel pump pressure (isolated from FP regulator) = good fuel pump and bad FP regulator.
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Tom F Three 940s. Lien holder on two more (the kid's). Rust in pieces, '78 245
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If the pressure is low, wouldn’t you still need to isolate and test the fuel pump pressure to determine if the fuel pump is good or bad?
I think you're right there. And I also think there is another Schrader valve in the fuel line somewhere under the car, which would be for a direct pump test.
I haven't been under my '93 R/R in some time (and have only had it about 10 months), so hope this isn't just wishful thinking on my part. I'd take a look, but it's –20°F right now, with fresh snow cover.
--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current), '80 GLE V8 (Sold), '86 240dl, '85 244 ti, '83 245t
'76 244 (R.I.P at 255k), 73 142 (98K), '71 144 (ex circle track car)
Used '70 144 from '78 to '92, New 144 from '67 to '78, Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
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I wasn't aware that later volvos had schrader valves, since the newest car I have is an '89, when I posted with the link for the parker fittings. DUH. What I did for my cars was to buy the "T" from parker and brazed a schrader tank valve onto it so I could use the FP gauge set that I already had. Works like a champ. Hopefully his has the valve already on the fuel rail, I always wondered why Volvo had not put a valve on the earlier cars considering that Ford & GM had them in the mid 80s'. Learn something everyday here. Later,rcs
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Go to this link, should help with tapping into fuel line. rcs
http://blarf.homeip.net/volvo/fuelpressure/
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Thank you rcsammy, thank you lucid, and thank you Bill Watson. This is very clear now.
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Tom F Three 940s. Lien holder on two more (the kid's). Rust in pieces, '78 245
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If you come up with low pressure reading, CAREFULLY pinch return line with pump running and observe FP gauge, if pump is good, pressure will go up quite a bit. Closing off return line essentially takes FPR out of circuit. Make SURE that you have a good fire extinguisher close by when testing fuel systems and it is a good idea to do it outside. Hopefully it isn't as cold where you are as it is here. Good luck, rcs.
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Ha, it’s not too cold here at all. But, we are getting 3 to 5 inches of snow, freezing rain and sleet (Raleigh/Durham area). This is my backup beater, not a beater, that’s not doing the job.
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Tom F Three 940s. Lien holder on two more (the kid's). Rust in pieces, '78 245
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