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after replacing all the seals, timing belt, ccv hoses, the car runs great, and 2 days later, what is this new thing?
1991 945 turbo 225k. after driving about 45 min both highway and residential speeds, i stop at the post office to get some stamps. when i come back out, the car will not move when shifted into drive, 1, or 2. engine revs normally, trans seems stuck and wheels don't move. like you are stuck on a curb, only you're not. reverse works, so i try rolling back then hitting it in drive. nothing. finally, after sitting perplexed for a half hour, i try it again and it does the same thing, then finally gets over the "hump" and starts to drive. next time i park and come back, same thing, and reverse begins to have trouble moving. no real grinding, just the inability to move. tranny works fine when it gets over this invisible barrier, has no problem going from gear to gear, but after parking and restarting, it keeps happening. i don't really know how else to explain the feeling, other than it is like trying to move the car while up against a wall, then it finally decides to move the wall slowly, then the wall is gone, but not without quite a bit of effort. oh, yeah, and it spits motor oil out from underneath the motor like crazy while doing it. we're talking a stream. i don't know if the two are related, just an observation. trans oil is fine and has no burnt smell. i also now get an occasional huge clunk from the rear when accelerating from a rolling idle. what is going on with this beast? none of this happened before. it is really cold here (nj) right now, if that has any relevance.
oil light is on even though there is plenty of oil. does the oil light also indicate too much crankcase pressure? even though i replaced all the ccv parts, there still seems to be inordinate pressure, and previously the light only came on when the oil level was low. this is getting annoying, i thought i had it all under control. ahh, hubris. help. thanks.
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'75 164e(?), '87 240gl(350K), '84 240 gl(233K), '91 940se(225k+?)
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My $.02
When you turn off the car, fluid drains back from the torque convertor into the pan. You start the car, but there is so much air in there you have to bring engine RPM up quite a bit before the system 'primes itself' with a bang.
Getting Oil pressure up to snuff is job one.
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posted by
someone claiming to be strippin 90
on
Fri Jan 23 14:39 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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while changing the front seals,timing belt etc.,it is quite poss.that you have uncovered a wiring problem,(a common problem) if the black wire that goes to the oil switch grounds on anything,it will cause the oil light to come on.check out the condition of your wires.
VERY IMPORTANT find and repair that oil leak.....
it is very easy to dislocate the wire spring that goes around the inside lip of a front oil seal while installing,this will cause a leak under pressure.
When your car decides to break free and go forward,is it because you have reached a certain r.p.m. and then the trans "kicks in" or, does it seem like the trans is working all the while and then the rear end finaly lets loose,if it is the later, try messing with your parking brake,often when they malfunction the car will go in reverse fine,but lock up in the forward gear.
hope part of this may help
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strippin'- option 2- the tranny is working and then the rear finally lets loose. how do i go about checking the parking brake? is there a fix for the diff besides replacing the axle? i've never had to bother with one before. why would it let loose after being stuck? this sucks, and it's like 10 degrees out. i just don't want it to lock up on the highway clocking 70 mph, like i read when searching the archives. it only seems to do it when starting up, at least for now, but that got me worried, since i don't actually know how the whole differential thing works, never dealt with one in my other volvos. how could it lock up without ever showing a sign before? no clunking, pulling, nothing. then it won't even move? ridiculous. i'm frustrated. i think i want to know nothing again and take it to a mechanic. a little knowledge is....
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'75 164e(?), '87 240gl(350K), '84 240 gl(233K), '91 940se(225k+?)
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posted by
someone claiming to be Dave
on
Fri Jan 23 14:10 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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I had this very problem with my first car...a '78 Mercury Cougar (don't ask.) Basically a large portion of the differential gears were stripped, and if the differential stopped spinning in a certain spot, the "invisible wall" would take effect. Short answer: your diff is toast.
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I'm way out of my experience here since I've never owned a 4 banger. I'm putting together information from reading posts for the last 4 years.
Is it possible your oil seperator box is plugging with ice? With that many miles on the car you may have a seperator box or other part of the breather system almost plugged with crud and the cold has cause the remaing passageway to freeze with water vapor????????????? The pressure may be keeping the oil from draining back from the head??
I definitly wouldn't run the engine with the oil light showing! The light is driven by a switch connected to the oil galley and if the switch is closed you either have no oil pressure or the switch is bad.
I'm real curious to know what you find. Please keep posting.
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'96 965 with 16' wheels at 112K. Had '85 745 Turbo Diesel for 200K.
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loss of ATF in the transmission?...I would sort ASAP as i would imagine it CANT be good whatever it is....
could the oil light also indicate a low oil in the transmission??? I presume its an auto from what you have said...wah tdoes the transmission dip stick say?
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like i said originally, the tranny fluid is fine. red, no smell, good level, no leaks. tranny runs fine after the wall is down, except for clunk i mentioned before, which doesn't even feel like the tranny, feels further back, like the rear diff, but i never worked on that before or had a problem with it.
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'75 164e(?), '87 240gl(350K), '84 240 gl(233K), '91 940se(225k+?)
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posted by
someone claiming to be anderson
on
Sat Jan 24 05:58 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Sounds like you can do a couple of quick checks, even in the cold.
Wait until it happens again. Turn it off. Try to push the car forward a foot. Stuck park brake will make that impossible. If it rolls, start and try to drive. If a bad place on ring gear it should engage right away. (I'm doubtful about that being the case. Confirm by pulling the diff drain plug just enough to see if glitter comes out instead of fluid. A diff that bad will have stuff in the bottom.)
Bad torque converter drainback valve will make the fluid level get really high when parked. Easiest cold weather check for converter losing fluid, park car warm, check fluid for normal level. Come back 30 min later, start car and right away check fluid. If near normal and car still has wall, you can eliminate drainback problems as cause.
My bet is on the P Brake.
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it does feel sort of like parking brake, but i've never driven with the parking brake on, so i don't know. drove around today and problem never manifested itself. went to buy diff. oil, going to change that out and see if there are any metal shavings in old fluid. i'll run that torque converter drainback test as well, thanks.
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'75 164e(?), '87 240gl(350K), '84 240 gl(233K), '91 940se(225k+?)
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