My 1989 temp gauge was DEAD. I removed the Comp board, and jumpered terminals 1&3 and it had NO effect. I grounded the temp sender wire (between runners 2 & 3 on the intake side of the head, and still nothing but I could get a good ground THRU the sender wire from the cluster. So the Gauge was replaced with one from a '86. Works great now.

Compenstaion board are one of Volvo's WORST ideas ever.
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JohnG 1989 245 MT @216,500

A little wiggle and giggle and you can get it past the Steering wheel.

pull hard to get the Headlight and Dimmer switch knobs off. I thought I was doing something wrong because mine were on so tight.

--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwr and two motorcycles: it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

No need to remove steering wheel. It comes out easily after removal of the screws. As you pull it out partway note the location of connectors and a couple of individual wires. Eliminate the temp comp board if necessary as instructed by other poster.
--
David Hunter

Tighten the nuts.

Clean and tighten the VR connections.

Resolder the comp board and clean tighten the pins.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

The comp boards are just a needless pain. Eliminate it. The gauge function is hardly changed (other than working all the time if the problem is in fact the compensation board, and it most likely is)
Randy

I would think the TEMP COMPENSATION BOARD in the cluster in geting a bad connection or is going bad. You can do the PERMENANT FIX by jumpering a wire across two of the three pins so that the actual temp is always being displayed through the gauge. The Temp Comp. Board is supposed to keep the variations in the cars temp hidden by showinf the temp gauge at the 9:00 position all the time. The board will only rise or fall extreme HOT or COLD Temp otherwise it is usually in the 9:00 position.

To take off the cluster remover the dimmer and headlight knob on the left, then remove the dimmer/headlight switch plate, then remove the two screws underneath the plate (left of cluster edge), and if you have either two gauges to the right of the cluster or have two blank spaces remove the bezels and you can remove the last two screws next to the clusters right edge. Once the four screws are removed the cluster should come out a little bit. Then you can take of the fabric cover from underneath the steering wheel and reach you hand up and around there and disconnect the connection to the back of the cluster, should be about 2-3 electrical (4-5 if you have a tach + small clock) and also you will have to dissconnect the speedo cable. If this is the first time you have every taken out the speedo cable then it will a bit hard to turn and the speedo seal will have to be broken. If the speedo seal has already been broken then just twist the speedo cable connection off and the cluster should wiggle out to the right. You could either clean the contacts for the temp comp. , do a search for the temp comp board bypass, or just get another temp comp board. I have a spare one if needed but I'm sure the bypass would be better. Good Luck!

Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza

1979 264GL B27F 122K

Features Added:

BW55 To M46, Central Locking System, 25mm IPD Front Sway Bar, 81+ Dash W/ Oil & Ambient Temp Gauges In C, Oil Pressure, Volts

Next Project:

+Cruise Control