I replaced my control valve with the newer style scantech this past fall while replacing the blower motor. I was able to get it to work quite well but with a fair bit of extra work and parts modification. The description of the part as
"heater control valve kit" is a bit misleading. The instructions are worthless, parts are included that are of no use, and several parts had to be modified and a few more purchased at the hardware store. A kit it is not.

I took a bunch of pics of the process to post here but I still haven't gotten the film developed. If interested, I'll get on that and make a big long post with photos and such. Let me know...


-Steve in Minneapolis
1987 245DL 243k


Also, unlike impster, I am happy enough with the performance of the valve. If the control cable is properly adjusted, you should be able to totally shut off the heat. But I'm in Minnesota (not as cold a Maine this year) and enjoy a trickle of warm coming in all the time, at least until July or so... ;-)

I installed a Scantech heater valve and have found it to be unacceptable. I have read of others experiencing the same problem.

The problem:
The valve never shuts off completely and the heater continuously produces heat. The longer you drive, the hotter it becomes when set to the coolest temperature. I use my 240 wagon for work and some weeks spend hours on the road. Once the car becomes warm inside, even at the valve's lowest setting, I find that I have to open a window (and I live/work in Maine - not know for warm winter temperatures).

I contacted the vendor who sold me the valve and they reportedly contacted their supplier. They were told that the valve is designed that way (for reasons unknown to me).

I plan to go back to the original style valve shortly, well before the ambient temperatures here in Maine begin to warm up.

Like Doug suggests, look for posts on the new style heater valve. I can't remember hearing any success stories, or good answers to the complaints.

I haven't tried one, so I can't contribute experience here. I've been able to make the old valves a bit more responsive -- that is widen the range of the lever's "medium" setting -- by adjusting the screw that compensates the wax thermostat that senses plenum temperature through the cap tube. Still, they don't work that well, so you may not have any luck, but it is worth a try compared with the cost and trouble of replacement.

This is a photo of the front of the Ranco heater valve, but the photographer failed to put the subject in focus. That is a Phillips head screw being turned by a pair of needle nosed pliers. You may be able to reach it with a Chapman offset screwdriver, or, as I found out since, you may be able to just pull the whole valve and its bracket from the heater box. The bracket is just wedged into a slot in the heater box casting. By all means, check the travel of the control cable first.

hi there i would check the connection on the heater valve where the cable hooks to the valve they can loosen up and slip.

Check the archives. I think some people had problems with one of the aftermarket brands. I got mine at a junkyard and it matched perfectly.
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, M46; 86 244, 140k , auto.

I need one also.
I was going to go fcp, personally i like fcp, cheap, good service, quick... I've ordered quite a few scantech products (240 and 850) and have had no problems so far. I havent had experence with the new style heater control valve. But I dont see why it would be any harder.

$34 from fcp. Go for it!
You cant even order one from the ipd site....havent checked the catalog.


Good luck,

Josh