Worked on the brick for several hours this morning. One of my tasks was to change the tie-rod ends. While changing them I noticed that the ball joint covers/seals were both totally torn around their circumference and that one of my struts was leaking. Looks like I have some more work ahead. I have never changed struts. Are they a DIY job or are they best left to a pro? I know I can handle the ball joints.

By the way, I am still looking for a 3515364 wiring harness should anyone have on that they are willing to sell.

Thanks,
Michael
--
1986 240, 230K, Original owner, Boulder, CO.

Just did this job on my Toyota and I am now getting ready to do it on my brick. Lesson learned from the Toy...even with pneumatic tools...don't bother with the spring compressor crap. I've got an automotive part supplier/machine shop nearby (5 miles) and I learned by mistake on the front struts on the Toy to have the machine shop compress the spring and install the new cartridge on the back two struts. Cost was $40 labor and another $25 for a new pair of boots (Toyota wanted $50 for the boots). Result was that the job took an afternoon instead of three days as the fronts did. I'm definitely going to pull the Volvo's struts off and boogie on down to the machine shop to get them revised! I suggest you do the same.

If you have enough time to work slowly, deliberately and safely, then by all means save $150 or so and do the struts yourself. Just don't start Sunday afternoon at 3 pm if you need the car to get to work Monday morning... that's a golden invitation for Murphy to show up.

A common hassle is getting the top "jeezus nut" off the strut. If you have a pneumatic impact wrench, great - that works 99% of the time. If not, go to a garage and pay a mechanic $10 or a six-pack to buzz the nut loose for you, then just run it back down a tad more than finger tight for the ride home. I used a stack of washers about 3/8" high on my new struts to move that top nut high enough for a normal offset box wrench to work when I torqued the nut onto the new struts. A second pair of hands is a huge help when you're trying to get the new strut and bearing plate back up into the strut tower, and aligned with the bolt holes.

One thing to pay attention to is that on your high mileage brick, the strut bearing plates may be ready for replacement. They're pricey, but when the strut is out it's the right time to put in new ones. If you hear a groan or other odd noise from the top of the strut tower (listen with the hood open) as you bounce each front corner up and down, chances are the bearings are tired. Maybe get a pair of bearing plates that you can return, to have on hand just in case. And if you find one bad bearing plate, replace both.

Ball joints are easy and while you're working on the struts it's a great time to put in new ones.

Beyond that, follow the advice from Rob B. (Aye Roll) and others. Lastly, plan on getting an alignment after the struts & BJ's are in. Good luck!

hi there there is a wiring harness on ebay right now with five days left to bid. i think it is the one you are looking for. good luck.

I installed my Bilsteins myself a few months ago. I don't know if I'd do it again. I have a quality pair of spring compressors, and an electric impact gun, for what that's worth (not much IMHO).
The struts I took out were genuine Volvo green cartridges. The car is an 87, with 225000 on it at the time. The top nut absolutely refused to come loose on either strut. The strut rod simply turned with it, and there was no way to hold it from turning, through the spring.
So that meant that I needed to compress the spring, and totally disassemble everything to the point that I had just the nut, upper strut bearing plate, cartridge, and the rubber bump stop still bolted together. This means that I had to get the big nut that holds the cartridge into the tube loose, underneath and amidst the spring, boot, and compressor. I did manage to do it, and alone at that, but it was a total PITA. I almost gave up and declared that I couldn't do it, on the driver's side.
To get the top nut apart, I ground flats onto the the old strut rod, using a 4" grinder, once it was all laying on the ground. Then I could hold the rod with a pipe wrench while I applied much force to the nut with a breaker bar.
My Bilsteins (I chose Touring) came with a new top nut and a new spanner nut for the strut tube.
I found that a couple of partial-disassembly things really helped with the job. Remove the bolt (12mm) holding the bracket for the front brake lines to the body. This lets you pull the strut far away from the car without having to bleed brakes afterward. Also remove the inboard balljoint nut & bolt, and loosen the other two nuts, but don't take them off. This lets the ball joint move to an angle that allows you to sneak the whole strut assembly out from under the fender edge so you can work on it, and easily put spring compressors on it. I was unable to use my compressors up in the wheelwell- the strut top is up in a hole, giving no clearance. Loosening those nuts lets you keep the whole thing together and again you avoid needing to bleed brakes. You do need to separate the tie rod end from the spindle, and to remove one end or the other of the sway bar endlink. The control arm itself is not unbolted for this.
Also, upon reassembly, getting the three top studs up through the fender is a royal pain. Second pair of hands really helps there.
Anyway, the difference is night and day from bad struts to new struts- get it done one way or the other.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 225K, 88 744GLE- 209K, 91 244 183K. Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 229K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 235K, 88 245DL, 236K

I agree with Rob -

I did both my 240's last year.

It was well worth the hassle.

I am not sure why an impact wouldn't turn off the top nut - unless the electric impact just did not have the "sharpness" of impact that an air impact does.

The rest of the job went pretty much as Rob explained.

I used a piece of rope as a 3rd hand when re-installing the strut - it is still a PIA.

Try to avoid opening the brake line system if at all possible. Old lines and fittings tend to strip.
Or inspect the brake hoses - if they are showing cracking or any wear, you may want to order replacement brake lines and hoses from (www.fcpgroton.com) or other reasonable parts house, and do the brake lines/hoses at the same time.

BE Verry careful around the spring - have good quality clamp on spring compressors - some units - usually the pricier ones, have a cast hook rather than small "U-bolts" to secure the coils to the spring compressor unit. I tried the hook unit and was scared of it - the odd chance of the spring unleashing its force was not my cup of tea.

Many auto parts supply stores will rent or lend spring coil compressors.


Good luck

I've done many sets of struts, and couldn't see paying someone to do the job for me. The real answwer is that it depends on the individual person doing the job. If you have access to a spring compressor (AutoZone loan-a-tool), a good asortment of hand tools, and know how to use them, it shouldn't be beyond your grasp.

Of course, I'm speaking from my southern experience. Rust can throw a wrench into the works.
--
1991 245, 61k miles, looking for a 5 speed 92-93 245 cheap.