just got a good deal on rebuilt calipers, im looking to replace them tomorrow, can i just take the brake lines off at the caliper, screw them into the new one and bleed them and be done or do i have to follow a special procedure with those metal lines that go into the caliper? any help would be greatly appreciated, anyone have a writeup on the easiest way to do this? its an 84 turbo with the girlings

Here's a Brake Tip I toss in at every opportunity:

You can absolutely Stop Brake Fluid Loss from any open brake line by blocking the brake pedal depressed. It only takes an inch or so on the 240s. The 700/900 Green Book shows it fully depressed by a special tool (easy to replicate). Disconnect the battery to keep brake lights off.

I've been using this on '80s 240s for about 8 years now—ever since I learned it from an independent Volvo specialist. I made a wooden prop that hooks to the bottom edge of the pedal and bears against the 240 seat adjuster bar. It's handy for checking brake lights too.

I tried it when I first got my 940, but it didn't work with the "usual" 1inch depression. Made the "usual" mess instead. Haven't tried it since I got the 700/900 Green Book. BTW, the Green Book says to open a bleeder first. Use a tube and container to catch the fluid expelled when the pedal is depressed all the way.

There will be no air to bleed from the lines—just push the fluid through the new calipers after they (and the pads) are installed

--
Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current), '80 GLE V8 (Sold), '86 240dl, '85 244 ti, '83 245t
'76 244 (R.I.P at 255k), 73 142 (98K), '71 144 (ex circle track car)
Used '70 144 from '78 to '92, New 144 from '67 to '78, Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

hi,

remember my cold start nightmare. well i had to replace some of the wiring harness for my oil pressure light. and the car starts first go now. unsure if this was the cause. ps my fuel pumps were repalced with brand new ones only just over a year ago now, so i think they must be ok.

thanks again for all your help.

chez

Hi

It´s no special procedure which has to be followed by replacing the calipers.

Just disconnect the brake line fittings from the old caliper..be careful not to lose too much fluid trough the brake lines when they´re off the caliper...although you can easily fill up the lost fluid but it´s just a mess when too much flows out...place a pan or somethig else under your working area to prevent too much mess on the floor. Angle the lifted off brake lines to a position which prevent the fluid from flowing out.

To lift off the old caliper easier remove the brake pads...that is not absolutely necessary but helps a bit. Then remove the 2 big bolts, which hold the caliper in place and lift the caliper off the brake disc.

Installation is the complete reverse of the description above.

After fixig up all of it be sure that the appropriate level of brake fluid is inside the reservoir. When this is checked depress the brake pedal a few times to pressurize the system and then shortly unscrew the bleeder screws on the caliper to get rid of the air which could be inside the system. After doing this, check the fluid level again...finished!!!!

I´ ve done it several times without any problems...also with the "Girling" system.

Good luck and lots of fun

MP

In my experience it is always well worth trying to limit fluid loss, not just because of the mess but mainly to stop air getting back up the pipe and increasing the extent of the system that has to be bled.

Also it is not a good idea to depress the brake pedal further down than it goes in ordinary use. This runs the internal seals over unused sections of the bore, which may be corroded or have dirt deposits. Look at the number of posts here from people who say ' I replaced the pads/calipers/etc, bled the brakes repeatedly, now the pedal goes to the floor'. The reason is often damage to the seals in the MC from this cause.

If you disconnect the flexible hose and immediately plug the end with a bit of tapered wood it prevents fluid loss. Then fill the caliper as much as possible before connecting, leave the connection loose and GENTLY press the pedal several times, then tighten up and bleed normally. I recently replaced the flexible hoses on mine without needing to bleed the brakes at all, using this method.

Another reason for only gently pressing the pedal is to avoid triggering the 'octopus' junction and brake warning light sensor. If that happens it can be a whole new problem in itself.