Howdy -- I'm the proud seventh owner of a not-so-proud 1983 240 (technically a 244 I believe).

Two challenges:

1. Overdrive Solenoid: It's dead, I think. I've checked the relay, wiring, etc -- and I can run power directly to the solenoid lead-in (w car off), and nothing clicks.
(A) This means it's dead, right?
(B) Can one mechanically lock the car into OD, by banging on / otherwise mutilating the solenoid?
(C) Any suggestions on how much it should cost (in Northern CA) to get a mechanic to replace the solenoid?


2. When stopping, left rear quarter gives out NASTY noise of metal grating on metal. Sounds almost like muffler dragging (isn't, I checked). Suspect this is the "your brake pad is worn out" warning...
(A) Yes? Other ideas?
(B) Suggested cheapest replacement facility? (Midas, etc)
(C) Approx cost?

Basically, I love my car, but it has 160k miles / 20 years / 6 owners, and I bought it for $1k. I drive it back & forth to work 15 min each way, and sometimes a 60min trip to the city on weekends -- so don't want to spend $$!

Thanks

- KE

A/T, no doubt.

If you hydraulically bypass the solenoid by cutting a "V" groove passage between the (hydraulic) input and output ports of the solenoid, then your tranny will always be in an "overdrive enabled" status.

Others here have done this successfully.

Grinding -- sounds like classic worn-out pads on gouged rotor. Midas would be an approach, but "Mikey Moron" in the backyard might be a better alternative...

Can you replace a rotor and a (stuffed) caliper yourself?
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

"If you hydraulically bypass the solenoid by cutting a "V" groove passage between the (hydraulic) input and output ports of the solenoid, then your tranny will always be in an "overdrive enabled" status."

Don: Can you give me some more details on how to do this? I've briefly looked at the OD solenoid, and as I recall the passages are small. What sort of tools are used?
Marlin

I've never had a failed solenoid and have no firsthand experience with this workaround. But others on the BB have reported doing this -- I only repeat what others have said.

Hopefully, someone who has done this will speak up.

But once you perform this modification, the solenoid is forever bypassed -- so it pays to be absolutely sure that the solenoid is defective before cutting metal.

I surmise that you cut a "V" (using a small triangular file) in the solenoid body between the two ports. This should provide a hydraulic bypass to the channel that's internal to the (now defunct) solenoid.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)