is this 544 worth bidding for? How difficult are these to work on compared to my 240?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3651951426&category=13581

TIA!
SM
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90 BMW 325is, 98 BMW 528i, 90 Volvo 240DL

Since I started with a 1964 Volvo, it's easy for me to say that once you've worked on one Volvo, you've worked on them all. There's a design consistency that has evolved from the earlier ones even to the present Volvos. I don't know how you would regress, but yes, they were very basic and simple with many industry standard components - Lockeed-Bendix brakes (same as used on Ramblers & Studebakers), Monroe shocks, Bosch electrical components, etc...

This car looks decent from the outside, based on the condition of the chrome, despite the precense of snow. The achilles heel of these old Volvos was rust in the unibody sub-frame components, front chassis, A-arms, clutch and brake mechanical components and of course the floor. If you can inspect the car beforehand or make any purchase contingent on a mechanical inspection, you'll save yourself some possible grief.

Since this car seems to have been driven in Wisconsin, this may explain the condition. In extreme cold states and provinces, salt is ineffective, so isn't used to melt the snow. My 1960 Amazon-S came from northern Saskatchewan (north of Wisconsin) and I couldn't believe how well preserved it was - bought it and love it!

Good luck.
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Cam a.k.a. CVOLVO.COM

Showed it to my wife and she is opposed to me buying more cars and 'filling' up the driveway. Currently the 240 sits outside...and to her, it de-facades the front of the house :-) so more only makes it worse, in her opinion. Plus Wisconsin's wuite a drive from western NY!!!

She will never understand my love for old cars!!

Cheers,
SM
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90 BMW 325is, 98 BMW 528i, 90 Volvo 240DL

If you can weld, and fancy a project I'd get my wallet out. Floors are available from Sweden, though the rears are flat not the proper pressing. They're a truly great car.

Regards


Pete

They are considerably simpler than a 240 - and more of the parts are designed with maintenance in mind (fewer special tools needed).

That car will be a 6-volt - and create some issues in either finding replacement bulbs, motors, etc or in converting to 12-vold. It has a previous generation B16 motor - parts for it will just be a degree harder to find than for a B18/B20 engined car (B20's were made in much greater numbers and throughabout '75).

The sheetmetal is easier to work on that probably any other Volvo because the body structure is simpler - and there is less to it. At the same time - that means that critical areas are more likely to rust out and fail. While I've seen 120 and 140 series cars still in driveable condition with rust holes large enough to chuck a cat through I've also seen 544/444 cars that still look decent outside with rear springs poked into the trunk or rear axles adrift. The bodies just aren't as massively overbuilt as the 120 series on was.

Great cars, however. They weigh hundreds of pounds less that a 122 coupe or 1800 and feel like it.

For 25 bucks I would certainly buy it. Its hard to tell what the real value is. is there rust in the floors, does it run, etc.

I would think, except for things like rust, it is probable easier to work on.

Shane
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'66 122s, '60 PV544, 73' 142s