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I am considering buying a second 240. I already have a 1990 240 wagon, which I bought a year ago and went through a lot of problems. I learned alot and feeling confident about my mechanic skills, I am tempted to get a second 240 for fun.
Actually most of the time I ride the train to work, but I just love the simplicity and durability of 240's. They are just fun to work on.
Also, the advent of internet parts suppliers like Eeuroparts, FCPgroton and IDP really made my hobby affordable and pleasurable. Each time I buy parts from the internet and save tons of $$, it feels like I am giving the middle finger to the dealer. The local dealer only serves to supply parts that I need RIGHT NOW!! Even then, I get pissed off about how much they charge. On most parts, they charge 2 to 3 times what the internet suppliers charge.
I saw a 1988 240 that has new tires and a new clutch with only 140K. California car, which means no rust. She wants about 2500 bucks. I am tempted. I recall reading sometime ago that 1988 240's are the best. Can anyone tell me why?
Thanks
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I think a lot of choices are limited by location. In Maine, it's rare to find an 86 or older that isn't eaten up with rust. Plus, the older ones have harness issues. If I was in a rust free state the choices would be different.
I just bought another '90 245 M47 with cloth interior and I love it. It has lots of miles but the rust is very minimal, hardly any. The only problem is an impending clutch job and the radio was preset to NPR. I quickly switched to the Savage Nation.
Location is everything.
--
'90 245 DL 253K M47
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Years ago, I had a 1975 245 wagon, excellent body, but it stranded me too many times and a year later those problems were passed onto someone else. 5 years ago, I bought a 1986 240 sedan with its entire history and receipts since new with 185K miles on it at a Range Rover dealership. They were asking $1800 for it, I offered $1500 and we settled on $1700. All I had was $10 in my pocket and they took it as the deposit and I drove it home the next day. It just turned 277K miles last week and the air conditioning just went out this past summer. I had it retro fitted to the R134a system and treated it to a factory color paint job. Same engine, same transmission. I drive 85 miles plus each day, no traffic. This November I will be sending off for my 300,000 mile grille badge. So far I feel this is the best year made.....Good luck..
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Survivor 99,
I wanted to second Yana's idea about getting a second '90 because of interchangeability. There was a period of time when I had two '82's with the K injuction system. Nice to have the interchangeability, especially for diagnostic work (swap parts from one to the other to diagnosis through substitution). Later I had an '83 and an '84 which both had the LH 2.0 injection system.
I've had a '90 for about 3 years now and prefer it over the '86, '84, '83, '82, and '80 that I've had. Main reason is much much less problem with rust (not just that it is newer -- better metal protection in manufacturing process) and better wiring. You mention a bunch of problems with the '90. My '90 started with a bunch of problems (got it off the back row of a dealership awiting a trip to the auction) due to age and inattention. But it has been renewed through new and used parts that I have been able to put on because they are easier to work on than a lot of other kinds of older ('90) cars. And as you note parts are easy to come by for late '80s and early '90s at a good price.
Another possibility is a '90 740 because you have the same engine and transmission.
The nice thing is that once you master one B 230 engine (the '90) you have what you need to know to deal with slight changes that might have occurred in '91,'92, and '93.
Good luck in finding a '90 or newer with good paint that just needs some renewal that is priced right.
Mike
Currently down to just three Volvos -- '90 240 Sedan, '89 740 Turbo Wagon, '64 PV 544
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I personally would never want a 240 made after 1980. I might consider one made between '81-'83, but it would have to be pretty cheep.
I have a 1977 244 DL, and a 1980 245DL. Not sure of the mileage on the '77 (probably around 300K), but I know the mileage on my '80:

My mom once had an '89 245 that was a complete piece of crap. Since that car, I would never want one of those computerized 240s.
Although, from what everyone says on this site, the '90s 240s are the best. I haven't driven one, and I really don't plan on doing so, but I learned to usually trust the Brickboard. I still don't think those computerized componets will last 423K miles though... heh heh heh...
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as 'Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!'
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hey I got a situation similiar to you. Had a 1990 240 sedan (277K) and wanted a 5spd Wagon. My criteria was that it had to be between 1990-1993 240 Wagon with a 5 speed. Ended settling on a 1990 Wagon 5spd with 156K. I saved this car from neglect and have done a ton of work on it.
To me the later the year the better. Allthough I didn't really want ABS brakes > 1991 and perfered to get the Dana rear axle < 1992. So that left 1990. 1990 wasn't a bad year and are plentiful in all both sedan/wagons/auto/manual. In late 1989 the block casting was strengthen so this makes a good case for 1990. Look for a K on timing belt cover. I personally wanted the air bag which was introduced in 1990. To me the biggest benifit of having 2 1990's is the compatablity of most all parts. Given that 240's generally are very interchangable things like AMM and computers aren't always so having the same year helps.
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Looks like Volvo changed from LH2.4 to LH3.1 sometime in 1990. My Sedan manufactured Aug 1989 was 2.4 my Wagon manufactured in March 1990 was 3.1. if the 6th and 7th digits of serial # are 88 then 2.4 if 82 then 3.1. Just found this out.
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They probably thought 88s are the best because it was after they fixed their wiring harness problem, but before the FI systems and other additional systems made the cars more complex. I have two 88s, am happy with them, and probably wouldn't buy anything earlier. I probably wouldn't hesitate to buy one of the later years, and would especially appreciate the airbags, which weren't available until the 90s. I'm not sure which year was the first airbag year.
The price sounds reasonable for a California '88 in good condition with 140K. If it has an M47 (5-speed manual) you are in luck, but treat it well - change the oil and overfill it as soon as you get it.
I personally wouldn't buy any car, even a Volvo, with over 100K on it that I didn't know from maintenance records, or from a thorough inspection, that it was well taken care of. Even a Volvo 240DL wouldn't last much longer than 100-150K if it was neglected.
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I just love my old 83 242 with the B21 A carburetor engine. It is about as simple and easy to maintain as any car I can imagine and still not be an antique. It has the point ignition which I have upgraded to a Crane HI-6 while still retaining the original system for backup. It has the M46 + OD. With 286000Km on the odo it started today (as always) at -30C . I like the older 240's-the simpler the better.
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posted by
someone claiming to be RolandP
on
Tue Jan 6 18:59 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Where did you get the info about the Crane HI6 ignition system?
I also have an 82 B-21A. It has breaker points which I am considering to get rid of.
Does the new ignition pickup coil or whatever fit inside the actual distributor?
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Roland, The Crane Hi-6 works great on my car. I have used it on 3 cars, two with point ignition. Nothing is added to the inside of the distributor. The points are retained. It's very easy install on a Volvo 240 of my vintage with the B21A engine. They are expensive but I think that there is a less expensive model which will probably work just as well.
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posted by
someone claiming to be RolandP
on
Thu Jan 8 03:57 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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Thank you for the information about the Crane Hi-6.
Just one question about the breaker points;
" Nothing is added to the inside of the distributor. The points are retained."
Do you mean that the points are still used by the Crane device but at a much lower current, which would mean they last longer but still have to be replaced eventually?
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