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no fuel after timing belt job 86' 240

So, I did the timing belt job and replaced the seals. In diagnosing the timing belt I noticed that I was not getting any fuel and that the fuel pump wasn't energized. This was understandable considering that i read in the FAQs that there is an automatic shut-off for when the engine isn't working properly. Then during the timing belt procedure, in order to get the crankshaft at the timing mark by running the starter, all of a sudden gas starts coming out of the return tube that i had forgot to connect. So, I thought, swell, I've got gas! Then, after i get the car back together without the accessory belts attached, I go to crank her up and I don't have any gas coming through the return tube.

I cranked her up for at least about a minute.

tank has at least 2 fresh gallons that i just put in.

fuses checked ok

fuel pump located behind rear driver's side wheel is not making any noise or vibrating.

Is this the automatic shut-off? If so, is there a timer on this thing?

any help, please?

thank you for sharing.
daniel








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    no fuel after timing belt job 86' 240

    Dan,

    If your 25 amp under the hood FI fuse and holder are toast you might cosider spending six bucks or a marine grade water proof fuse holder. West Marine or other boating supply stores stock them. I've replaced the corrosion prone Volvo holder in all of my later model 240's with them ... haven't had any problems with that nasty 25 amp fuse since. It seems to be a permanet fix. It's a good idea to put a little dielectric grease on the fuse legs and holder sockets. What ever you problem, I'd replace that open air fuse/holder with a quality water proof holder and new fuse. If it isn't the problem this time ... sooner or later it will be. My $.02








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    no fuel after timing belt job 86' 240 200 1986

    The fuel pump relay can just die, as can the 25A fuse holder under the hood.
    Inspect both, and replace either if it's old- they're relatively cheap. Fuseholder is right behind the battery- it is white and has a red wire going directly from the + clamp to it. They crack and overheat. They're only $3 from Volvo.
    The relay is under the right side of your dashboard. It's white, about 1X2 inches, and has a date code on it (usually). PN is 3523608. $20-40 depending on source. Your old one can be opened up and re-soldered inside for free, if you can solder at all.

    As for the diagnostic process, you need to see if you've got any spark first. If so, then the distributor is triggering, the ignition computer's working, and the fuel pump *should* get turned on by the ECU (as long as the relay's doing it's thing).

    A couple weeks ago, I posted about an 87 that was dying intermittently- turned out to be the 2-pin grey plug under or near the coil. Not seated properly.

    Good luck!
    --
    Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 225K, 88 744GLE- 209K, 91 244 183K. Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 229K, 88 244GL, 146K, 87 244DL, 235K, 88 245DL, 236K









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    no fuel after timing belt job 86' 240

    Somewhere you do not have a completed electric circuit to power the fuel pump. Go back and check for any loose wires that you forgot to connect. Also check the fuses and ground. Is the fuel pump relay good? Just a few ideas to check.
    Was the car running before the timing belt change?
    --
    Beastdriver - '75 245 217K miles (Beast), '83 245 216K miles (Beauty),'87 244 DL 160K miles (Dodo)








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      no fuel after timing belt job 86' 240

      i'll check the wires and the relay, but i haven't touched anything electrical. And yes, the car was running, but left me stranded with a broken timing belt. so i got it towed home and then started working on it.







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