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Maaco Worries 200 1989

The Brick's going to get painted before my Christmas vacation is over, and I'm a bit worried about everything. The only place of which we know to take it is Maaco, and I was just reading about other Brickboarders' experiences with Maaco.

To sum up what I know, I need to do prep work. The problem is that I have absolutely no car skills--I broke part of the power window switch when I tried to fix it (just fixed in a shop a few days ago, for those of you who remember me asking for help a while back).

I'm not sure if we have a power sander or anything else that is used in prepping a car--I don't even know what the process entails. Even if we did, I don't think my parents would be particularly happy to see me outside cluelessly messing around with the car, wearing a mask sanding off the paint and pulling off parts I think would otherwise get painted over by Maaco. They'd prefer I leave it to the "experts" (which don't always seem to come through, from the posts I read).

I wish there were other alternatives, but we're going to end up taking it to Maaco and letting them do (almost) all the prep and paitning work (I'm not even sure if my parents realize that prep needs to be done first).

Is there anything that I, a not-mechanically inclined teenager who wants the best for his Brick), can do before handing it all off to Maaco? We're probably not changing the color (black would be sweet, though), and we're going to choose to do the second or third level job, I think called "Presidential" and "Supreme" (NOT the cheap-o budget one).








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Maaco Worries 200 1989

Vist the Macco place and try to talk to the body and painter guys.find out how long they have been doing body work/painting.i am talking about the actual workers and not the owner.Ask to see some of their completed work, whether it is a door or a complete car.Look for a nice smooth paint job,no runs,orange peel,sagging paint or dust particles in the paint. Look down the side of a car that has had body work done to it.See if it is straight,flat,smooth like nothing ever happened to it.Check other cars that are there around the windows and moldings for good taping/masking work. If you like what you see go for it!
Nelson








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Maaco Worries 200 1989

How is the local shop's reputation? Check with the BBB first to see if it's a yay or nay. They are franchise owned, so the shops vary.

Explain to your folks that they almost always just mask and never remove, which is why you want to at least take care of that. It works out, as it's less labor for them, and you won't get the chance of any overspray. Lights would have to be done when you get there, but the fender/door trim strips, bumper trim strip, grill, emblems, windshield wiper and wiper post seals, and emblems could be removed prior. Also, just before taking it in, wipe down the car yourself with thinner or acetone to remove the dirt, oils, and waxes. Do a few passes just to make sure it's off. You don't want any of that sanded into surface.

You are better off leaving it the same color, as that way, any rock chips that will occur sooner or later driving down the road does not show up. And it's pretty obvious too, as interior metal will have a different color. Resale value depreciates too, as buyers question what you're trying to hide.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40








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Maaco Worries 200 1989

Try and find a auto body class either at high school or at a community college. Some offer classes at night. If you get into a class you may decide to forget Maaco, as the teacher can help you paint after you've done the prep. Some of the best value for the buck that I've ever encountered. If you are a perfectionest and expect that $4,000 paint job -prepare to take lots of time (and classes!)








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Maaco Worries 200 1989

rickm has the right idea. If you can take an auto body class at a community college or vo-tech school, do it.

About 100% of a good paint job is the preparation. The actual "painting" is a miniscule fraction of the time and effort. In restoring my Bronco, I spent many months sanding, filling, and priming. I spent a day or so spraying it. The more time you devote to prep, the better the paint job will look.

Good luck,
Keith
--
1983 245 Turbo, 165K miles; 1987 244 DL, 272K miles; 1980 244 DL (RIP); 1966 Ford Bronco- straight six, three-on-the-tree, NO frills








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Maaco Worries 200 1989

Just to give you a data point: while having a minor ding in our minivan fixed at a local body shop with a very high reputation, I asked the owner to have a look at my son's 81GL and estimate a full-bore paint job. Full prep, some small door zits and dings fixed, but sprayed the same color, clear coated, etc. He said to do the kind of job they could stand behind would run about $4000. That was 4X what we paid for the car.

Maybe he was really saying "we don't want the job", but the shop is big, squeaky-clean, and full of Porsches and Land Rovers and the like. So there's what the "Carriage Trade" places charge.
--
Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-944 B230FD plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)








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Maaco Worries 200 1989

As for the Maaco part of it, I've seen good, and i've seen bad. Unfortunately, the good ones weren't my cars, and the bad ones were. My '66 122 has a maaco job. Not so smooth. From afar it looks not bad, even has some nice metal flake in it, bit close up, not so pretty. I've seen some good ones though too, which leads me to believe it might jsut be the guy you get painting that day. Good luck, and would love to see pictures.
For masking and such, i pretty much have the same advice. COmmon sense and high school body shop class tell you to pull off what you can without getting a headache. Door handles, corner lights, tailights are all pretty easy too do yourself, and worth it in my opinion. I'm pretty sure the rain gutter moulding comes off easy, not so sure though.......Other easy things might include wipers, trunk (or tailgate) emblems, etc..
Hope you get the best!








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Maaco Worries 200 1989

The trim along the upper portion of the door would probably remove fairly easily. It just pops out. You can easly remove things like the windshild was squirters too. With a little patients and your parents permission you could remove things like the bumbers, buber trim and door handles. The more you remove the better job you will get. So I would say to remove what ever you feel confortable putting back on. A shop manual such as bently might help you with some removels. I would also mask off anything from the car that you don't wat painted such as winshield trim etc. This is only a few ideas, I thinking bout painting my brick at some point and this is what I have been told to do. any other ideas? Let us know how it turns out. It would be cool if you could post before and after pictures.







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