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no start

posted by  brick8 on  Sat Sep 13 04:34 CST 2003
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last visit: Mon Nov 11 07:36 CST 2013
[RELATED]

My 1988 740 turbo was running great until yesterday. I went to start it and the car turns over fine but nothing happens. Even though it sounds like the car is cranking normally the tachometer shows no revs. I remember having had a problem like this before when I forgot to reconnect the hall sensor wire to the distributor after changing the head gasket. But the wire seems to be in the right place now. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.








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    no start

    posted by  someone claiming to be vernon in nh on  Sat Sep 13 06:22 CST 2003 [RELATED]

    try disconnecting the lead for the mass airflow meter. If she starts it might be bad.








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    no start

    posted by  brick8 on  Sat Sep 13 05:57 CST 2003
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    I don't think it is the distributor hall effect. I disconnected the connector at the bottom of the distributor and cranked the engine and the tach doesn't move at all. When it is connected the tach moves slightly, so I now assume this isn't the problem. I pulled out the fuel injection relay and looked at it carefully and it appears OK, although it is original, judging from the date on the shell.








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      no start

      uid 55's pic
      posted by  john sargent on  Sat Sep 13 06:06 CST 2003
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      last visit: Wed Oct 22 09:07 CST 2014
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      Assuming the cam belt is intact and the remainder of the engine is in good operating condition, your no-start issue is caused by a lack of fuel or spark.

      You can test for spark by pulling a spark plug lead and watching for spark when the engine is cranked over. I usually put an old spark plug in the lead.

      You can test for fuel pressure at the fuel rail by carefully loosening the fuel supply line at the fuel rail. If gasoline sprays everywhere, you have fuel pressure. If you have fuel pressure then you need to check the injectors for operation. You can feel them click when the engine is cranked. I had had four stuck fuel injectors, but that was on an engine that had been in storage for about a year.
      --
      john








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    no start

    uid 55's pic
    posted by  john sargent on  Sat Sep 13 05:55 CST 2003
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    last visit: Wed Oct 22 09:07 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    The Hall effect most likely is bad.

    Where are you in the US?
    --
    john








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      no start

      posted by  brick8 on  Sat Sep 13 06:35 CST 2003
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      last visit: Mon Nov 11 07:36 CST 2013
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      I am in Minneapolis. The tach moves slightly up and down when I crank the engine. I followed the wire starting from the connector on bottom of the distributor to try to see where it end up to see if it was a faulty connection on the other end, but gave up when it went into a wire loom thing with other wires.

      To test the hall effect do I need to buy another distributor?

      I checked for spark using my timing light and it appears that there is spark.








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        no start

        uid 55's pic
        posted by  john sargent on  Sat Sep 13 07:01 CST 2003
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        last visit: Wed Oct 22 09:07 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        If the tach needle moves and there is spark, your Hall effect is okay.
        --
        john








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          no start

          posted by  brick8 on  Sat Sep 13 07:13 CST 2003
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          last visit: Mon Nov 11 07:36 CST 2013
          [RELATED]

          I pulled the fuel pump relay again and did the test from the 700/900 FAQ where I connected a small length of wire between jumper terminals 30 and 87/2. I can hear the in-tank fuel pump by listening through the gas tank filler but cannot hear any sound from the main fuel pump. Does this mean I have a bad fuel pump? How difficult/expensive would this be to repair?








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            no start

            uid 55's pic
            posted by  john sargent on  Sat Sep 13 07:28 CST 2003
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            last visit: Wed Oct 22 09:07 CST 2014
            [RELATED]

            Did you check for lots of fuel pressure as I posted earlier? There will be about 42psi with the main pump running. The in tank pump puts oout about 5 psi.

            The main fuel pump is an easy repair, except the fitting on the output can be difficult to loosen. The FAQ recommends an air impact for this if you have one.

            Both fuel pumps are energized at the same time, so if you have power to the in tank pump you should have power to the main pump.

            Have you run the car out of gas recently? This seems to be the main cause of fuel pump failure. My son has ruined two that way. First on his car, but then he didn't learn and ruined on on one of our cars which he was using.
            --
            john








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              no start

              posted by  brick8 on  Sat Sep 13 07:46 CST 2003
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              last visit: Mon Nov 11 07:36 CST 2013
              [RELATED]

              I removed the fuel hose from the injector rail(?) and it just made a sucking sound. There was no gas at all. Out of frustration, but carefully, I went under the car and rapped on the fuel pump with a wooden dowel and a rubber hammer. Voila. It starts. Does this suggest I need a new pump, or could it just have been stuck? The car has been running great, without any sign of fuel starvation. BTW I never run with less than a quarter tank. Thanks for all your advice.







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