Thanks all.

I have followed the advice from Rhys and seem to have found a reasonable setting. I had to go on a country trip (not hard to do from Canberra!) to pick up the daughter from uni and did a fuel check. After the adjustment as above I did 440km on 49.66 litres. Not bad from my perspective (about 25 mpg) for a 1980 245 auto.

Still have that damn no power/hesitation problem. I'll try the suggestions you have all made and see how I go.

thanks again for the responses.

mike

Using a CO meter is a pain. My wife's '79 has a red test lead in the engine compartment. I think Haynes and Bentley both have specs for adjusting it using a dwell meter. Hook the meter up at the test lead and udjust until the dwell reads appropriately. I'll check tomorrow for the specs.

Jim Hampton

I have this same problem, and was one temperature sensor, your brick have a frecuency valve?, its buzzing? if yes... with the motor off, disconnect this and check if works... Actually I have my brick with out this frecuency valve connected and runs well (not that I want, but I have to change this sensor)

hope this help you...


Edwin

In addition to what the others told you so far, with the engine off, check the air plate for sticking. Since you have cleaned it, probably it will not stick.

Then pull the injectors, have new seals on hand, and install them for kicks.. Flip the key to on and lift the air plate as you watch the injectors spray.

They should resemble one another in spray pattern. If not clean them the best you can. Varsol is what the dealer uses and in a pressure pump to blow them out with the varsol.. I use oven cleaner as I do not have the Volvo tooling for this.

I am not sure what down under cars have, so if you happen to have a vacuum pod on the distributor check that. Pull the hose from the manifold end and clean it well enough to draw (suck) on the line.... See if you can stick your tongue to the line and the line holds it there... If not that will be a hesitation for sure.

Do you have a product known in the USA as WD-40? This is supposed to be a light lube spray, and it is only so-so for the claims, but it makes a great tool for seeking vac leaks in general.

With that or something like that, and some folks use a un-lit propane torch the same way.... You can feed a fuel rich air mix around any and all vac lines listening for any RPM change.

If no leaks are found in the engine compartment, then seeking leaks in the dash might be in order. Any vac tubing has 2 ends no?

I hope this helps.. Mac

Yeah, been there done that.

I go thing going allright, drove around for a few months and then decided to go to Volvo for a tune. He said it was way out, but the fuel consumption never improved or deteriorated.

Basically it is not easy to set it up correctly with CO measure, but at the same time it is not so critical for proper running (passing emission tests is another story).

Reg,

Jorn

Turn it clockwise to go rich until the engine idles smoothly. Go lean until the idle falters, go back to just rich enough to regain the smooth idle. You can't hurt anything, and the proper adjustment is "in there". A bit of trial and error, and you will find the setting - it is a finite point, no magic to it. The intial setting is done by Bosch of course, and I have no idea how they achieve it.