Today I removed a caliper when I pulled the right front strut. I decided to replace one of the rubber hoses. I bled the system (with help) using the open bleeding screw, push pedal down, tighten screw, let up on pedal method. I followed the order given in the Bently manual, and watched the level in the master cylinder. Now my brakes stop the car just fine, but the pedal has more movement than before. I checked for leaks on the new hose side, but there were none. Bleeding the lines definitely bought the new clear fluid through the bleeder screws. (old stuff was not too bad).

Now what? Do I bleed it again? If so, must I change any part of the bleeding method?

I came up with this idea after having replaced several master sylinders over the years, due to using the pedal method of bleeding.

Usually, the o-rings set up ridge inside the M/C cylinder, and that is where the pedal bottoms every time.

When you bleed using the pedal, there is no bottom mark except the firewall.

As the o-ring is pushed past the ridge, the o-ring is scored and then aft that the pedal either is soft or braking is incomplete.

Here is the trick...

Before the system is opened, press the pedal as far as it will go, or just a bit shy of max motion.
Vice grip a 4" piece wood or flat bar to the side of the brake pedal arm, so that the "stop" contacts the firewall.

Clamp the bar on firmly.

Now when you bleed the system, you do not go past the "ridge" point.


Works like a charm, if one does not have the pleasure of a pressure system.

One more note to add. Resiviour did go empty while fighting with the brake hose.

Mark,

Believe it or not, you will probably need to bleed the Entire system. A few weeks ago, I did the Hoses & Brake Lines in the Front. We went through three pints of Brake Fluid. (Make Sure you use DOT 4) Go through and rebleed the system, then again, then again and possibly again. Good luck.

Todd :-)

Probably more bleeding is needed. But here's a tip for future Brake Work:

When opening ANY brake line, you can prevent fluid loss from the MC (and any open lines) by blocking the brake pedal depressed an inch or so. It works.

(Works on 240s for sure. But not on my 940. I Think I didn't push the pedal far enough, after reading Green Book brake section.)

P.S. Disconnect the battery to keep the Brake Lights off.
--
Bruce Young,
940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Now gone)
'83 Turbo 245
'73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--and going to be crushed unless...)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67

Thanks, I'll remember that next time.

You probably got air in the system.

You will probably have to rebleed to make sure all the air gets out of the system...

Other posters will bring more knowledge to this, I'm not experienced with brakes yet...