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Brake Problem ... Resolved 200

posted by Green Lantern on Mon Jul 28 05:22 CST 2003
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last visit: Tue Oct 23 09:01 CST 2001

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Hi all,

As some of you may recall, I had a brake problem about a week ago that I could not figure out. Problem was that I could not get the pedal to stop sinking once the car was running. I had replaced all the brakes and flushed the system. I even replaced the MC. We bled the system several times in the order advised in the Haynes manual. The brakes felt normal after the bleeding the system with the car off ... but as soon as I turned the car on the pedal started to slowly sink under pressure. I checked all the lines (recently replaced) and no leaks were found. While all this was going on, the brake failure light would come on once and a while. I took apart and reset the switch, but the light came on after the next press of the pedal.

As a last ditch effort (before my 1 week camping trip) I decided to take the brake booster out of my 1986 245 DL and put it into my 1983 242 ti (the one with the problems above). To my delight this solved the problem of the pedal sinking to the floor when the car was turned on. I took the car camping with a full load and it worked great.

I did not reset the brake failure switch and as a result the light still turns on once and a while but the brakes seem to be consistent. Maybe I'll reset the switch tonight.

Thanks for all the help, it was greatly appreciated.

Sincerely,

Greg
--
1983 242 ti, 1983 244 ti, 1986 245 DL

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Brake Problem ... Resolved 200

posted by lucid on Tue Jul 29 13:05 CST 2003
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:31 CST 2014

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Glad to hear the brakes work. But be advised that there is *no manual reset* to the warning switch. It should be self-centering if the primary and secondary system pressures are equal when braking.

Maybe in the course of the problem the internals got stuck at one extreme.
If you are sure the bleeding job went OK, just drive it for a while and see if it centers itself. And try really tromping on the pedal and holding it down a few times (while parked would be good).
--
Bruce Young, 940-NA, many 240s (one V8), '73 142, '71 144 (ex circle track car in CT), '67 144 (new), used 122 from '63 to '67

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Brake Problem ... Resolved 200

posted by Trev29 on Mon Jul 28 10:41 CST 2003
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 05:56 CST 2014

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So it was the brake booster that was the problem.

Question is: how did it get damaged as it was working prior to the brake job?
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

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Brake Problem ... Resolved 200

posted by Green Lantern on Mon Jul 28 16:42 CST 2003
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last visit: Tue Oct 23 09:01 CST 2001

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I have no idea. The only thing I can think of is over-aggresive bleeding. Does that make sense?

Greg

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Brake Problem ... Resolved 200

posted by Trev29 on Tue Jul 29 10:56 CST 2003
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last visit: Fri Oct 17 05:56 CST 2014

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"The only thing I can think of is over-aggresive bleeding. Does that make sense?"

Don't know, but wouldn't want others to make same mistake. If you figure out why, let us know.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

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Brake Problem ... Resolved 200

posted by jbowser on Mon Jul 28 06:00 CST 2003
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last visit: Fri Dec 24 08:36 CST 2010

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Greg,

Thanks for the update. I wish everybody that posted a question would reply with what the fix was after a lengthy brainstorming session!

On your switch, the first time I bled/flushed my brakes mine was on constantly. Somebody (can't remember who, been years...) suggested just stomping the brake pedal a few times, it actually worked! I suppose the trick is to just stomp it hard enough to jog the switch but not hard enough to break something!

YMMV...

Justin B.

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Shouldn't need to reset... 200

posted by lucid on Mon Jul 28 09:55 CST 2003
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:31 CST 2014

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Justin is right. Your switch may be sticking, but there is no need for a manual reset like in 140s.

Actually it's not the (plastic) switch that sticks, but the sliding piston inside the Junction Block. Its center "belt" is insulated, but if it slides either way, due to a pressure imbalance, the uninsulated part makes a ground path for the spring-loaded switch "button". No notches or anything to catch and hold the switch. If the light's on, the piston must be off center.

Try the stomping trick. Hopefully you don't have to bleed anymore.

Speaking of "imbalances" and "off center", did anyone ever come across an English motoring book called, "Unbalanced Cranks"?, or the sequel, "Eccentric Bores"? Anyone....? Or have I missed my meds again?
--
Bruce Young, 940-NA, many 240s (one V8), '73 142, '71 144 (ex circle track car in CT), '67 144 (new), used 122 from '63 to '67

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