I hope you guys can tell me why my 240 pulls to the right while braking. The car stops perfectly well- I've recently replaced the master cylinder, among other things- I just can't figure out how to make it brake in a straight line. The power steering rack is in need of replacement, could that be the culprit? Thanks for any help! One other question I had... my power windows roll down without the key in the ignition. I know this isn't right, why is it happening? Does it fall under the same fault that keeps my clock from keeping the correct time? Gracias!
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Matt J. 84' 240 320,000mi.

If you are going to have your wheels off. Squeeze the pads, with vise grips or channel locks, into the calipers to see if any pistons are seizing/seized. (Pump the brakes to get them back out). Use axle stand for safety.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

If there is air in one of the two circuits, one rear wheel will get pressure and the other will not. In the front, both wheels will get pressure, but only one pair of pistons in each wheel. The pull to one side will be less pronounced if just the rear wheels are "lopsided".

(1) Do a series of hard stops, then quickly check the rear wheels for heat. Hot = OK, cool = check the bleed there. And, you might have a bad proportioning valve.

(2) Have a look at the front pads, see if they are wearing into a wedge shape. BTDT. The end of the pad that is in front of the pistons on the "airy" circuit won't wear much. The other end of the pads will wear to metal rapidly.

(3) If you have a dragging caliper in front, the fluid can actually boil. This will make both piston pairs in that wheel get no braking as the MC is compressing a gas, not a fluid. BTDT too. Check carefully for a very hot wheel. If this is the case, after hard braking the pull to one side will be quite pronounced.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Don't overlook suspension and alignment issues...

Justin B.

when your car pulls to one side it means
that the other side is lacking grip during braking, perhaps wore pads
air in the calipers, grease on the pads

bad braking liquid (too much water in it)
bas caliper (leak = pressure lost)

compare your wheels on the dirty/clean aspect of the rim

clean rim = almost no friction material is coming of
dirty rim = brakes

this is an indicator

Didn' t your brake indicator light up (the red one (O) )


My father had a 740 with one rim ALWAYS immediatly dirty because of a stock caliper. prob now solved
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240 '88 B200K wite sedan 255K km Europe virgo+all turbo gauges, Phoenix Gold + Kenwood ampli, Focal door speakers + tweeters, Kenwood 6'x 9', 10 CD changer in enlarged globe cabinet, dubble rear coil springs , hitch, fog lights, 2 extra rectangular pencil

Somehow the power wire to the clock and the power windows might have been swapped around. Not specificly to the clock and the windows, but rather to the rails on the fuse box. Perhaps a previous owner did it to allow operation of the sigarette lighter or something else on the same circuit without the key, or he wanted to be able to operate the windows without the key. The clock might be unrelated. Does the clock stop after you remove the key (or on a really old car, a few minutes after the key is removed)? I think you will have to trace the wires according to the wiring diagram.

You're brake pads aren't wearing evenly...

Reknew all your brake pads.

When you replace your brake pads, you have to do both sides of the car. So, if you replace one in the back, you HAVE to do the other side on the rear. Same goes for the front. Otherwise, you get that pull you describe.