hi everyone-

my 87 245 (manual transmission) has developed a new unnerving problem - lately, about 60% of the time it starts fine (hot or cold starts), another 20% of the time i need to crank it about an extra half second before it starts, and the other 20% of the time it turns over, but then sort of coughs and sputters and *almost* dies out before it finally "kicks in" and starts. the sputtering can happen after the car is warmed up or even after letting it sit for a few hours - can't find a pattern to it. once it starts it runs fine.

i've checked all the fuses under the dashboard and they all look good with clean connections. the battery is fully charged, new alternator and wiring harness. no burning oil or compression problems. spark plugs and distributor cap are only about 1.5 years old.

a friend is betting (only $5, but still...) that it's the starter, but i'm more inclined to thing it's got something to do with the fuel injection or fuel pump relay. how can you tell if your starter is dying (besides the fact the car won't start) - do they go suddenly or can it be a slow process? any suggestions? has anyone had a similar problem? i'm just trying to cover my bases before i bring it in to a mechanic for a look if need be (unfortunately i don't have the tools/know-how/courage/time to troubleshoot a fuel injection problem!)

thanks,
kathryn
ps. by the way, thanks to everyone on the brickboard who helped me out on a wiring harness troubleshoot last summer - i haven't had to get anything fixed on the car since then!

I think you'll win the $5. If the engine cranks fine, the starter motor's doing it's job (which is to spin the engine).

My '86 does the same, sometimes. I also notice that sometimes I can hear the vacuum hissing when I shut off the engine.

I'm beginning to suspect that a bad vacuum check valve (which would allow air back into the vac reservoir) can cause this. If the vacuum escapes (reservoir refills with air), then the engine will re-evacuate the reservoir when it cranks -- and this means that unmetered air is "inhaled" by the engine. This is extra air but without the matching fuel. So the engine cranks extra seconds until the vacuum is established, and then the fuel matches the air through the AMM and the engine fires.

When mine cranks without firing, I compensate by giving it a series of short cranks -- one or two seconds each. It always starts after the second or third or fourth short crank. Every time you crank the engine, a bit if extra fuel is introduced -- and this would compensate for the extra (unmeasured) air.

The vacuum check valve is readily accessible (on the top of the engine), very cheap, and very easily changed. (I just haven't gotten around to it myself.)
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

thanks for the tip - do i test the vacuum check valve while the engine is running? i'll also look in my haynes and bentley manuals to see if they say anything about that. i don't hear a hissing when i turn the car off tho, but i hope it's a vacuum issue, as that seems cheaper and easier than a fuel injection problem. does your '86 sputter too or just take longer to crank sometimes?

You remove the check valve to check it. Blow or suck through it -- should work only one way.

"...does your '86 sputter too or just take longer to crank sometimes?"

Yep to both, and sometimes it fires up in 1-2 seconds -- particularly when cold (the FI ecu shoots in extra gas, which might compensate for the extra air).
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

don-
does the vacuum check valve have another name? i just tried looking it up in my haynes and bentley manuals (there is a bit on vacuum leaks on page 200-11 in the bentley), but neither mentions it by that name. or you wouldn't know where i could perhaps find a picture of this part, would you? thanks again...
-kathryn

Kathryn --

The pix is in my camera, but I just upgraded my computer OS, and it screwed up certain drivers [sighhhhh..... Thank you, Bully Gates]. So I can't download the picture this morning. Tonight, maybe.

On my '86 GL......

The check valve is a round, flatish gizmo about 1" diameter and 1/2" thick. One side is black plastic, the other half (top side) is white plastic. It has hose connections on each side (air goes through it), and is mounted in a hose. The hose is connected at the top-center of the intake manifold, angled upward but leaning over toward the engine (toward the passenger side).

The hose that exits the top of the check valve reduces to a small diameter (1/4" or less) and disappears through the firewall.

I have not noticed any problems with my '86 in the last few months, but it was difficult to start during the winter and spring -- all the time I heard vacuum escaping when I shut off the engine. I suspect that the check valve had foreign material in it, which has since cleared out. I don't hear the hissing, and I've not had starting troubles in the last 3-4 months.
--
Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

I've got a similar problem on my '88 B200E K-Jetronics 240 GLE. Does not sputter, but does sometimes take longer than normal to start. About 60% immediate, same as you. Got the car very recently and have not worked on the engine at all. As long as the starter turns at a good speed, there is nothing wrong with it. All my relays are re-soldered, so don't think that is it either. My thoughts are leaking valve stem seals, resulting in oil running down onto the plugs. My plugs are black, and I do notice grey smoke when the car is started. The ventilation hoses are also lined with oil, so the throttle body and everything else is probably dirty. Apparently the CO is correct, as it was adjusted recently by Volvo (through previous owner). When my 240 does not want to start, the best way to get it going is to turn the engine, push down the accelerator, then let go of the accelerator. I believe this cause a rich mixture. Perhaps damaged cold start injector and/or thermal time switch. Perhaps a dirty cold start injector.