I know that Volvo now doesn't recommend dropping the transmission oil pan as a routine maintenance item, but I think on a car that hasn't had routine flushes, it's still a good idea. I did the full flush routine a few months ago without even draining the pan, and the fluid got somewhat dirty again rather fast, so I decided to drop the pan.

My first issue was getting the dipstick tube nut loose. I had to use my floor jack to lever the wrench in order to get enough torque. After it was "loose", I still had to strike the wrench with a sledge hammer to back it out! What can possibly make this so tight? There's no corrosion, etc. I saw afterwards in a posting that anti-seize is recommended on this nut (too late now, but I'll not likely ever have this off again).

My second surprise was when I loosened the small bolts holding the screen in place. Once the assembly came loose, another litre or two of oil came out! Not a big deal if you're expecting it, but in my case, it was all over the garage floor. This wasn't mentioned in any of the postings I've seen; is it normal?

The pan did indeed have a lot of sediment in it, and the magnet was missing. I just found another small magnet as a replacement. With the filler tube nut so tight, I started it back in before tightening the pan bolts. It's hard to judge if something this tight is misthreaded, and I wanted to be sure it wasn't before I reefed on it.

Hope this helps other novices who are thinking of doing the same.

Darmstrong,
Your experience sounds very similar to mine. Congratulations, it's quite a feat to get that filler tube nut off.

As for my situation, it's 12k miles after I acquired my car and did the first pan cleaning. I'm going to pull the pan again before the end of the summer for another cleaning and a good flush. Here's what I'm planning:

1. Replace the finger-nail sized magnet with a big hefty disc magnet from a General Motors T-125 transmission. (much better suited for a long duration between pan cleanings, and can be acquired from any 3-speed automatic transmission in the GM A-body style cars, Cutlass Ciera, Buick Century, Pontiac 6000, etc.)
2. Clean the filter screen again and replace both of the filter gaskets that hold it on (requires two of them because there's a spacer between the valve body and the filter/screen). For those who are interested, the filter gasket is part number 3520329 and can be bought at your local Volvo dealership for $4 each.
3. Use a new rubber Napa transmission pan gasket. $3.50 at your local Napa store.
4. Put anti-seize on the filler tube nut. (I also had a very tough time getting it off. I ended up using a pair of adjustable wrenches with 15" handles to get the torque I needed.)
5. Use RTV sealant on the threads of the pan bolts to keep them from backing out.
6. Full fluid flush using Valvoline Durablend or better. (Something semi-synthetic or full synthetic as finances allow. I only did a partial flush the last time.)

A word of advise to those who will be pulling the transmission pan. I strongly advise getting a rubber pan gasket rather than a crushed-felt or fiber composite. Napa does offer a kit that has a replacement filter/screen, a rubber pan gasket, and a filter gasket, available for $15. However, they only provide 1 filter gasket and two are required. The filter gasket can not be ordered separately from Napa so you'll have to go to the Volvo dealership and buy part #3520329 which will cost you only $4. As for using the Napa kit, you probably won't need a replacement filter since it's only a metal housing with a wire screen stretched across it (and the original one can be cleaned very easily and then re-installed). When I do my next pan removal, I'll be buying the Napa rubber pan gasket, the two Volvo filter gaskets, and reusing the old filter/screen.

For those who are attempting this task, God bless you and your transmission. It's pretty easy, except getting that filler tube nut loose.
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 245, NA 220K

Fitz,
Wish I'd had this info 6 months ago when I did my 83 244 GL non-turbo auto w/ AW-70 w/ 75k miles.

Questions:
When I replaced my filter screen and filter gasket, there was only one filter and I replaced it w/ only one. What will be the consequences?

I replaced the pan gasket w/ the cork type replacement from AutoZone and put nothing on bolts. Will the bolts work lose? Will it leak sooner with the cork gasket?

I guess I'm lucky, because I never had any problems with the filler tube nut. But should I redo at year end w/ your recommendations and use the RTV sealant and anti-seize?

Thanks for all your help.
Waldo

Question: "When I replaced my filter screen and filter gasket, there was only one filter and I replaced it w/ only one. What will be the consequences?"

I'm asuming that you meant to say that there was only one filter gasket and you put in only one filter gasket. I'll be honest, -I'm not sure. If you tranny didn't utilize a spacer block, then you'll probably be just fine. However, if there's a spacer block in there and only one gasket, you might get a small amount of air or tranny fluid sucked through the metal-to-metal seal. I wouldn't worry about it too much. -but if it were me and there was a non-gasketed metal-to-metal seal in there, I'd probably run my tranny 1/2 quart or more overfilled. (it's usually safe to run 1/2 quart over in any automatic transmission, and some can take a full quart extra with no problems or seal leaks, but ask your Volvo mechanic if you're unsure.) The next time I'm at the Volvo dealership, I'll ask if a spacer block is required in all the AW70/71 trannys and if you can get by with only one gasket.

Question: "I replaced the pan gasket w/ the cork type replacement from AutoZone and put nothing on bolts. Will the bolts work lose? Will it leak sooner with the cork gasket?"

I've never used a cork gasket on a tranny pan before, and I didn't even know that Autozone sold a cork version. My prior experiences with cork gaskets were on valve covers and they typically became saturated with oil after a few months. This put pressure on the bolts and if they weren't sealed with RTV, they typically backed out slowly over time. If I tried to tighten the valve cover bolts down after the cork gasket was saturated, the oil refused to squeeze out and I warped the valve cover. I have had success in using cork gaskets on valve covers by completely covering the gasket with RTV until absolutely no cork was left visable (360 x 360 covering). I then put a bit of RTV on the thread of the bolts and reassembled the cover. It worked great for many years with no leakage until just recently. I'll be honest, your Autozone gasket may be just fine, or it may leak after 6-months to a year. I'm not sure. Any input from other board members with experince would be appreciated.

Many of the transmission pan gaskets that you'll find on the market are of the crushed-felt or packed fiber type construction. I've had hit and miss results with these over the years when working with other vehicles so now I try to buy rubber tranny pan gaskets whenever possible. (and use RTV on the bolt threads, there's a tiny bit of heat induced expansion and contraction with rubber and you want to avoid having the bolts work their way loose over time.)

Question: "I guess I'm lucky, because I never had any problems with the filler tube nut. But should I redo at year end w/ your recommendations and use the RTV sealant and anti-seize?"

It's your call. If you completely flushed and filled the transmission with a synthetic tranny fluid, (and assuming that the gasket doesn't leak) it may outlast the remaining life of your car (depending on the car's condition). If you find yourself down there to change the gasket in the near future, it wouldn't hurt to use anti-seize on the filler tube nut and some RTV on the bolts.

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 245, NA 220K

Thanks for your help. The pan gasket is corkish looking, so maybe it is a packed fiber type construction as you mentioned. I think you're right about rubber being better, because I do leak a tiny little bit and it seems to be coming from inbetween the pan seams. I even took a dental mirror and looked all over and didn't see any fluid leaking from above the tranny, so It must be coming through the fiberish gasket. Thanks and let me know what you find out about the spacer block for the AW-70/71 tranny.

Thanks,
Waldo

Another word of advice from an idiot who has do this dumb trick not once but twice. If you monkey with that tempting little drain plug in the tranny pan, odds are better than 50/50 you'll strip it. Often when it strips, it will not back or tighten leaving you SOL (and walking). This leaves you with another round of pulling the pan and trying to figure how to remove a now freely spinning, stripped small bolt from a recessed hole in a soft aluminum pan. My father was a machinist for 30 years and it took him over two hours to get the last one out that I screwed up. If you got by without stripping it, don't press your luck. Do any future flushes at the radiator cooler lines.

Slow learner

What 240 has an aluminum pan?

None. But since that post was written 19 years ago it's not likely to be seen by the poster. He would probably answer that what he meant was the aluminum transmission case. - Dave

Happiness and oiled surprises always are there whenever I do anything with the transmission. I usually look like I lost a bloody battle. Even when you think everything is totally drained, more oil appears. For me, newspapers are excellent oil blotters and if I think about it, lining the floor with an old pasteboard box really helps keep the area clean.

Have fun,

dick