Thanks for all the quick replies guys. . . . .I actually did disconnect the AMM and if anything the car runs a bit worse. With the AMM connected it catches immediately and smoothly but for just a split second and then dies unless I really diddle the throttle which can keep it coughing along for maybe 15 seconds or so. WIthout the AMM connected it barely catches at all. I am not sure how definitive of a test this is for the AMM but I had kind of dismissed it as being the problem (since it seemed to help rather than hinder) until both my ohmeters showed it to be out of spec. Does a 2.5-3 ohm reading (spec 3.5-4 ohms ) definitively indicate a problem (assuming the meters are accurate)? As to the AC micro switch, I too would think that its effect would likely not cause a no start however I am not exactly sure what the computer would do with the wire open to ground. According to the Bentley, this is not a condition that it should be getting from this wire as it should either be closed to ground or some varing resistance. Disconnecting the AC switch does not change the open reading at the computer connector so it would seem that I have a short in that wire. Interestingly enought the four or so wire harness that runs through the dash connecting the AC switch to the computer connector/main engine wiring harness also has other important fuel injection related wires. It is certainly possible that if one wire is damaged that others in the same harness could be as well. All the other electrical tests/main fuel relay tests came up fine except for the resistance of the AMM. I suspect that I am barking up the wrong tree here but who knows? Excess fuel may indeed be the problem; I will examine the regulator tommorow. Any quick tests (I don't have a fuel pressure guage) for it other than the mentioned disconnect and smell for gas? Should I pust the Mityvac on it and see if it holds vacuum? Sorry for rambling on and thanks for any more thoughts that anyone might have.

First, try the "limp home mode" as Randy suggested.

The AC microswitch merely bumps up the idle to compensate for the extra load imposed on the engine by the compressor.

Also, if you suspect excess fuel, check the fuel pressure regulator. Unplug the small diameter (1/4") vacuum line that goes from the FPR to the intake manifold and inspect it for gas, sniff for fumes. One failure mode of the FPR is a ruptured or leaky diaphragm, resulting in excess fuel sucked directly into the manifold through the vac sensing line.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)

Wtih the ignition "off" disconnect the AMM and then try to start it. If it starts and idles I would point my finger at the AMM. Always have the key off when connecting or disconnecting the AMM.
Randy