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What is suggested for a lead additive for the NO LEAD gasoline. I'm using the 97 octane on my 1965 1800S, however I'm concerned about valve wear due to the lack of lead. I know for a fact that the valve seats are original and have not been replaced with hardened seats. Should I be concerned about driving without lead in the gasoline? I remember a product called Real Lead, that you could buy for the older motors. Havent been able to find it. What are the rest of you doing for an additive? I have a 2,500 mile trip coming up, and I don't want to take any chances. I've seen Gumout lead substitute, has anyone tryed it?
I'm Havinfun.
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Havinfun is what I was doing with my 65 last year.It's been a while since I've been here which doesn't say much cause I didn't do much when I was here. If your are still checking this then give it a try. As far as a gas additive I use Marvel Mistory Oil. I think I used 4 or 8 oz. per tank. What ever the label said I think I did. Comes in a red can and not available in some places in the US. An old volvo mechanic swears by it and that was good enough for me. Any way my old 65 was a barn car that got a quick fix and put on the road. I lapped a few valves after the first 800 miles. It was to balance the compresion. The next 30,000 miles went pretty good. Very little valve seat wear. You can tell if they are wearing if your loose valve clearance. If the cam is going then you would have to tighten the valves. As far as octane, reg works just fine for me. My compresion was off and wanted to put new window seals in so the car got parked. I'm not planning a valve job but want to check them and for the most part just lap them.
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Thanks Robert for your input. I think I'll try several of the recommended procedures that the Brickboard has produced, including yours.
Window seals ... did that ... both inner fuzzy, and outer rubber wipers, not a tough job. I elected not to try and replace the staples that hold the fuzzies on the inner glass, and instead pop rivited them in place and painted the rivits black. They are not very visable, and you wouldn't know they were done that way if someone didn't point it out.
Thanks, I'm Havinfun.
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http://www.thenation.com/doc.mhtml?i=20000320&s=kitman&c=1
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Thanks also to Joaquin Novara in Lima-Peru and Charles Greenlaw (for snooping in the archives).
Thank you Jarrod Stenberg for making the BRICKBOARD the best home a Volvo could have.
I'm Havinfun
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There is a product around called Instead of Lead that may ease your apprehension but if you drive normally and don't constantly lug the engine and otherwise abuse it, you'll have no problems. I have a newly rebuilt B20 in my '66 and so far no valve trouble and none anticipated. Have a good trip!
--
Roy Olson
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Thanks Roy, I'll try to find some here in this little town, or maybe a trip to Bowling Green. I'm planning for a low event trip, and it surely will be a fun trip.
I'm Havinfun
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The general consensus seems to be that a head that was weaned off leaded fuel has a work-hardened face that will last very well indeed with no additives. Once that surface wears off (a normal valve job would do it immediately) it will wear down pretty rapidly. Also, high rpm use will also wear through that layer more quickly as well. The octane isn't (AFAIK) a factor in valve wear. Proper valve lash adjustment, however, is.
97 Octane might be overkill in a '65 1800S (10:1 CR). The manual may suggest that, but that was under a different measuring system (RON only). Today they use two different methods (RON + MON/2) which tends to drop the numbers slightly. A bit more accurate, but not quite on the same scale as RON only numbers. The 'old' 97 octane compares very well to modern 93 octane.
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John, I agree with the consensus, and believe that to be the case on my engine.
By the way I typed 97 octane should have been 92 octane. Thanks for the information. Abuse is out of the question, I've got to many hours on this little girl. I just want to enjoy the trip
I'm Havinfun
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Right. I had no problems whatsoever running a stock B18B on 92-octane unleaded, even with a bit more ignition advance than the book says.
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Phil, you bring up a good point. I believe the manual calls for 19 degrees BTDC.
Currently I have it set at 36 degrees TOTAL ADVANCE. The engine runs prety well however I get some backfireing through the exhaust on power and none on compression. While I haven't fine tuned for the trip yet, I'd like to know what the timing should (could) be using 92 octane. I have no pinging at any time.
Thanks, I'm Havinfun
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Hmmmm... it's been a few years since I had that motor, but I think it went to 38 or 39 BTDC total. It's going to depend on what distributor you're using -- you don't want the basic timing so advanced that it kicks back on the starter motor.
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If you just want to keep the valves cooled down and stop pinging, an old trick we used to use on high compression engines when they got rid of leaded fuelwas to put about an oz or so of two stroke oil in the fuel when filling the tank ( about 1/2 oz or so would probably work on a smaller tank)
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel
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Robert, sounds reasonable to me, I'll give it a go. Thanks.
Sorry about the illness on your "84 240 diesel, I'll keep good thoughts for ya.
I'm Havinfun
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posted by
someone claiming to be Joaquin Novara
on
Wed Jul 2 05:42 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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Robert, Hi, please, can you put some examples (brand/type) of "stroke oil"?. I live on Lima, Peru (South America), and don't have here lead additives (my 121 car run on 95RON unleaded gas). Stroke oil has a funny translation into spanish.
Thanks
Joaquin Novara
Rojo 121 Amazon
Lima-Peru
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2 stroke oil , the kind of oil that you mix with gasoline to use in outboard boatengines, chainsaw engines, weed eaters, dirt bike engines, etc.
The cheap stuff works fine, you won't be putting very much in .
It cools down and lubricates the intake valves, and slows down the burn, and helps to reduce pre-ignition (ping ) in high compression engines
Does this help?
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel
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posted by
someone claiming to be Joaquin Novara
on
Thu Jul 3 08:06 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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Yes, thanks a lot.
J.
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For what it's worth, I run 93 unleaded gas in my 68 B18 (never cracked open) and it does fine. When the head eventually gets rebuilt some day, the seals will be changed to the unleaded type. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Tommy, I agree. When I get this 1800 to my daughter in Reno, she and my son-in-law will have the maintainance to contend with. I have kept copy's of most correspondance and tech articles in a binder. My daughter is a wrench head and loves the old vintage stuff just like her dad
Thanks, I'm Havinfun
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posted by
someone claiming to be Charles Greenlaw
on
Tue Jul 1 17:33 CST 2003 [ RELATED]
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There's a lot of comment on this, and a reading list of tech reports, in the 120 list for Jun 26. See the "hardened seats" posts.
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Thanks Charles, I read them all. Very informative.
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