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First, I would like to say that I have been following the forum for a little while now and am very thankful for the great wealth of information shared by such knowledgable people.
This evening, while doing F&R pads and rotors on my 91 240 (no ABS, Girling vented fronts, ATE rears), upon reattaching the rear passenger side caliper, the lower mounting bolt sheared off even with the mounting point on the axle. The remainder of the bolt came out of the caliper easily, so that is fine. The problem is that the bottom of the bolt is still firmly lodged in the mounting point on the hub (?), with both ends flush to the bracket. :(
This remnant has been repeatedly doused with PB Blaster and had a number of futile measures thrown at it, including attempts to chisel or punch a groove to use a screwdriver, and drill through the center to "collapse" the bolt (ok, I don't know what I was thinking). As it stands now, the remnant is still very seized in the threaded part of the bracket, with small hole drilled through its center.
The car is up at a friend's shop who was nice enough to let me make use of the lift and bay, and I hate to inconvenience him further. Obviously I need some new bolts, and I was wondering if suitable replacements could be found without having to order the specific Volvo part. More pressing, though, is what to do about the remains of the bolt lodged in the bracket. Is this a part of the axle assembly or can it be removed along with the hub? What is the minimum that needs to be replaced in order to make way for a new bracket? There is an ominous drawing in the Bentley that shows this bracket as part of the whole live rear axle assembly which is making me nervous. I apologize for the novel and would greatly appreciate any and all ideas you might have.
Thanks,
Drew
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I wanted to thank all of you for the helpful tips, I managed to get the bolt out after all. I started with an EZ out bit, but the small tap wrench I had started bending, and I was afraid of breaking the bit. While I was at Sears Hardware looking for a larger tap wrench, I saw a set of the straight-cut bolt extractor bits that you drive in and picked them up as well. Sure enough, those did the trick and now the brick is back on the road.
Thanks again,
Drew
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Several have recommended using reverse drill bits instead of ez outs.
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This happened to me and I used an easy out, which worked surprisingly well.
Ron
87 745
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I know you don't want to continue with it, but I think drilling it is going to be the only way out. Hopefully your original hole is pretty well centered. What I would do is keep increasing the drill size, one by one, until you've just got a thin tube of the original bolt in there, and keep applying PB blaster and so on- you *should* be able to collapse it, or get it to finally break loose. You're most likely going to need a set of "EZ-out" type bolt extractors- you drive or insert these tapered pieces into the drilled hole, and try to remove the broken bolt piece by turning them. With any luck, the bolt is finally convinced to turn, rather than something worse like snapping the ez-out. USe the thickest one that you can fit into the drilled hole. Enlarge the hole gradually and try to drill as straight as possible. Fortunately you should be able to get at the outside of this thing so it's not like drilling into a blind hole.
You may also need to pick up a tap to repair the threads in the hole- I think it will be M10 thread. A junkyard is probably the best place to scavenge a bolt. The dealer probably gets $10 for it or something stupid.
Hope this works out- I can sympathize with that kind of a problem.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K
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I'm afraid I'm done for the night, but after some more research and your advice I think I will try the EZ out route. I have a fair size hole drilled through already (hopefully straight), so I should be ready to go once I get the bits. Right now I'm most afraid of snapping the EZ out, apparently after that you have to take the part (my axle?!?) to a specialized removal service because the metal in those bits is so tough. Thanks so much for your insights.
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I did the same on my '89 -240....don't bother with the EZ Out, just drill it out. You need a new bolt anyways. Keep drilling with progressivly bigger bits. I ended up retapping the hole. It is a metric 10, which is relativly common, but I went with a S.A.E. sized tap which everyone has(or at least knows someone that does)I think I ended up with a 3/8" (which was oversized)but then went to the coffee can full of bolts and found a grade 5 bolt. Unless you get the correct bolt from the dealer,if they have it in stock,You'll go nuts looking for a metric that will be strong enough. I was in the same spot(car at a friends garage) and didn't have the time,nor the inclination to screw around.I drilled, retapped, and rebolted in less than an hour.Later, as I got more time, I did the same procedure to the other 3 calipers and brackets. I was lucky, when I got home I found some teflon coated bolts that I 'acquired' in my travels so I shouldn't have that problem again on this car. Besides what are the chances of finding the correct bolts, in good condition, at the boneyard.
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Hello,
Keep drilling a progressively larger hole until you can get a decent sized tapping bolt in there. Then stick a slightly larger one in that will lock in there. That should get the broken bolt mooving again and out the other side of the axle hub.
Happy Bricking!!!
Richard
87 245 DL 358,000 km
82 242 GLT 121,000 km
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