Sorry to double post but I couldn't find my other post... Anyway..... DONT! pull on the e-brake handle. You will pull it up and at the same time you might hear a kinda rust draging sound. Then the e-brakes will be on till you take them all apart. When you take them apart it will be raining and the car will now be in the mud. I like the wooden chalks idea. Also I like to bring a New can of engine starting fluid. It helps start the enevitable fire from 30+ year old SUs. Bring the fire extinguisher.

john

Take a fire extinguisher.
With carbs, you can bypass the gas tank and run it from a bottle.
New battery, oil the cylinders a little, rock the clutch free, yank the emergency brake a few times.

Chances are pretty good that the clutch will be rusted in the engaged
position (Pressure plate stuck to the flywheel).
Here's how I dealt with that on a 122:
".....So I took it back and got a regular B20 which was better, and I
installed it complete with the clutch that was on it. When
installed the engine started OK but I couldn't get the car in
gear (I finally figured it out: the clutch was not disengaging.
Apparently the clutch plate was rusted to the flywheel.) Not
feeling like taking it apart again, I pushed the car out to the
street, put it in first gear and cranked the engine. It started
with a lurch and I was off! With one foot holding down the
clutch pedal and the other alternately tromping the brake and the
gas pedal, I lurched about halfway around the block in
increasingly traumatic lurches when the clutch finally let go and
I rolled to a stop. The neighbors were about evenly divided
between running for cover or rolling on the ground and howling
with laughter. From then on, the clutch worked more or less
normally except that for the following week it made a distinct
hissing sound upon being engaged (or enraged)."

That was 25 years ago and I had to do it in a 164 that had been in storage
in Charleston, SC for 9 months about 10 years ago. Worked OK then, too.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma

if it is a stickshift car, no need to make it run. assuming the engine and brakes aren't seized, just bump it on the trailer with the starter.

I'd take a battery and a new fuel pump with me. Mechanical pumps are pretty cheap and an old one with stuck gummed valves isn't going to pump. I'm not sure if it will have SU's or Strombergs, or even what kind of SU's if they do, but I'd take the float bowl apart and check the float valve to make sure it isn't gummed shut (or open either, for that matter).

There is a small plug at the bottom of the gas tank, you can fill it with a little gas, then remove the plug and let the gas whoosh out some of the worst of the rust, though the system will be puking out little rust particles into the filter for months to come. (Which reminds me - put a new filter on between the tank and pump). If possible when putting the carbs back together fill the float bowls with gas, it will save lots of cranking while the fuel pump laboriously gets fuel from the tank to the carbs.

Take the plugs out just to check, put a small bit of oil in each cylinder. One or more cylinders probably had a valve open the whole time and might have a bit of fine rust - the oil will help make its scraping out a little less traumatic. I wouldn't bother with changing the oil, just make sure it has enough. The gunk will have settled out of the oil and be on the bottom of the pan (and elsewhere) and would just stir up and contaminate the new oil anyway. Just change it after running the engine for a short time.

If the hydraulic brakes aren't working you probably don't want to try to fix them right then and there. Just cross the fingers and hope the parking brake is working well. Or try pouring in more brake fluid, even if leaky it might work for the couple of times you need them to to get it on the trailer.

Bring a few tires, bunch of wood blocks, and a jack. Plan on at least 3 tires needing to be changed to be servicable for the trip. Bring PB BLaster- those lug nuts are gonna be stuck. If you have some spare lug nuts, bring those- some may be really rusted, and you're guaranteed to lose one into the dirt under the car where you can't reach it.

Bring a big breaker bar and socket for the lug nuts. A portable air tank would be a help but a hand pump or cig lighter powered compressor will work as well. Maybe you can inflate one or two of them successfully. The rims are likely to be VERY rusty possibly to the point of being dangerous- inspect carefully.

Don't worry about brakes unless you have absolutely no pedal at all. If it's only got to go up one hill, it may not really need brakes if you've got a couple friends ready to help stop it with a wooden wheel chock.

Bring a can of gas and a big funnel for the filler. You may need to feed it some gas in the carb throats to get things started. A shot of PB Blaster on the linkages and in the carbs would help too. Expect to have to change the dist cap, rotor, and plugs in order for it to run. At least inspect the cap and rotor and clean them up first. Also the points may be really corroded and need to be set. Bring a new set of points as well if you can.
Bring coolant and make sure it's got some in it. Don't worry about the mixture, water would be ok too for this. Just don't leave it in the car until next winter. I'd also add enough oil to make it up to the line on the dipstick, and save the oil change for later. You won't even know if the engine is good until you get it back to your garage.

Also I'd expect the car to not want to move- maybe another vehicle (4x4?) can help pull it out of the hole it's in. If the parking brake is on, it might be tough to break it loose. Bring a hammer and expect to have to tap on the rear brake rotor a little.
And of course, bring a battery AND jumper cables.
Good luck!
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 220K, 87 244DL- 230K, 88 744GLE- 198K, 91 244 180K, 88 244GL 145K