Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 7/2003 120-130 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

121 - Misfiring and associated problems 120-130 1966

Folks,

Mine played up this weekend and under acceleration cut out. After a quick diagnostic, No spark at plug, no spark from coil to earth, I tried the old "Just one more crank" and off it went!!

Assistance gue (Who'd just arrived) said that "Sounds like the coil to me" and claimed that the engine is mis-firing under load. It doesn;t sound too bad, but there is a lot of engone shake.

Coil is original design one, with armoured cable to rear.

So, I have another coil sitting waiting to go onto the car, but before I go down the armoured cable removal route, can anyone suggest what may have caused the problem I described, or suggest any further tests?

Cheers
Eric
PS Can you copy answers to eric.team.roach@talk21.com please.... I really struggle to find my previous posts!








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

121 - Misfiring and associated problems 120-130 1966

I think it's the bolt through the distributor body connecting points, condenser and lead to coil. The bolt may be shorting out to the distributor body. Carefully disassemble amd make certain that the bolt and insulators are positioned to isolate the bolt from the distributor when reassembled.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

121 - Misfiring and associated problems 120-130 1966

Does anybody know where I can get the insulators? I've tried all the local auto shops but just get blanks stares. I need the one on the inside that also goes through the hole to insulate the bolt.

Or maybe you have some part numbers I can give to my local shops to assist them?
thanks
shane








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

121 - Misfiring and associated problems 120-130 1966

The insulator doesn't go through the hole. I believe that there are 2 discs, one of which sits in a depression in the casting, locating it and the bolt which passes through it and the other insulating washer on the outside.

Another thing you can do to the stock system is to get a male spade connector and drill a hole in it large enough for the bolt to go through and then put an inuslated female spade connector on the lead from the distributor. A quick way to be able to remove the distributor without messing with the points

I believe that Rusty at RPR sells a kit with washers and bolt - PN 1-237-011-500
for $5.25.

Try http://rprusa.com/rprstore/rprstore.htm.

and then click on 'ignition'.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

121 - Misfiring and associated problems 120-130 1966

It could be the coil but not very likely.
I'd come closer to guessing that it is points, wiring in the distributor
or maybe even the condensor/capacitor. If you didn't get a spark from
the coil and later hooked it up and it started that sounds more intermittent
than most coil problems.
Get a dwell meter and check it. Should be 57-63°.
If it varies wildly your distributor may be worn out (it is probably
pretty old). Or your points may just be worn badly.

If the dwell angle is too small your spark voltage goes way down
at higher speeds, but it will probably idle fairly well. I had a lot
of trouble getting the dwell up on old distributors because the point
cam was worn and the points were just barely breaking.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.