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Adding remote locking 700 1989

I am thinking of adding remote locking to my 740. Does the switch that looks like a power lock on the driver's side get replaced with a power lock or is the lock somehow added in addition to it? I am going by what I see in the location drawings. I would like to keep the driver's switch ability to lock all doors.

Any recommendations for a remote unit. Remote starting might be a good feature to add also.


--
Paul NW Indiana '89 740 Turbo 103,000








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    Adding remote locking 700 1989

    add a motor to the drivers door (see faq!)
    splice this into the wires for the rear door on that side just inside the car
    splice pulse control from a car alarm (with door locking output) into the control wires from the lock in the same location...easy...

    what is more 'interesting' is fitting the car alarm into the engine bay, runnign the wires through the firewall and splicing them into everything...

    I did mine recently, ripped out old dead system, fitted new system (being carefull and tidy) Items fitted includes:-

    2 stage trembler alarm
    bonnet pin
    microwave interior sensor
    microwave exterior sensor
    imobaliser
    wiring to drivers door lock motor
    wiring to door lock wires
    Flashing LED in sterring column top plate
    Flashing blue led's in both front doors along side locking buttons

    I also wired in a water tank sensor while I was there...

    As I say I reall took care and made the harness fit exactly and heat shrank/soldered everything etc...took me 2 days - but i didnt hardly rush at it or work very long hours, just kinda steady

    The advantage of the microwave alarm is that whenever anyone gets within a couple of feet it bleeps ..lets them know not to mess...or break your windows then realise its alarmed.....

    I think the alarm modules cost me maybee $150, plus another $50 in bits and bobs...








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      Adding remote locking 700 1989

      One of the fun things to try to figure out is how to get the wiring to work with the door lock actuator. Since you have to switch the power and ground when you want to cause the actuator to change positions, you gotta use 2 dpdt relays (or 1 dpdt and 1 spdt i think) because the alarm cannot power the actuator. I burnt out my alarms +12v wire because I used it to power the actuator.
      -Nathan








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        Adding remote locking 700 1989

        no need to use relays...

        wire the actuator in PARRALEL with the one in the rear door (you can pick up the cables in the sills...

        the actuator doesnt even connect to the alarm!

        the alarm outputs should have 1 that goes negative on lock, and one that goes negative on unlock...you wire these into the RETURN wires from the keylock switch in the drivers door...voila!

        (most alarms can suppply up to about 300ma on those cables, the keylock return sinks about 100ma - according to my meter) so no burn out!

        also only two cores to feed into the door...which you can do with the aid of a zip tie, a pair of wire cutters, electrical tape and washing up liquid....but the boble offthe end of the zip tie, tape cable to end of it securely (thicker end where bolble was wrappingthe tape round so the wire is completely covered) apply washing up liquid to other end of zip tie - now use it like needle to thread thru the rubber boot on the door (hint going from the inside of the car into the door seems easier to me)...should take about 5 mins tops...oh if th cable is thick run a lead cable thats thinner using the above method, then use that to pull thru the main cable....








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    Adding remote locking 700 1989

    You will need to add an actuator to the drivers door. Mainly to keep things in sync. The other doors respond to the mechanical action of the driver side door lock.







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