Hello all. Took the plunge and bought my first vintage Volvo, a 1958 PV 444! I know the front end is a kingpin configuration and I'm wondering if there is any conversions to put in a more modern suspension (with more parts availability). I've also read an article or two about putting the B20 engine and M40 transmission in these. Is this a good upgrade as far as reliability and parts? I will keep any non-444 stuff I replace so as to make it easy to convert it back to all original. But I want to make this my daily driver so any upgrade tips would be appreciated. Thanks! Sean

When I got my PV, I was pleasantly surprised that it handled better (more responsive steering) than the several Amazons I had owned. Lighter car, yes, but I attribute it mostly to the PV's front-end. As JohnMc says, the parts are available. It would be the last thing I would change about the car. If you are ambitious enough to upgrade in the engine compartment, you would get the most benefit from that if you put in an M41 (with OD) and swap the 4.56 rear-end for a 4.1 out of a B18 544 . Check out VClassics on this subject. And, yes, definitely, IPD sway bars make you grin with every turn in the road..
Bob S.

There is nothing really wrong with a kingpin front end - manufacturers mostly switched to the ball joint front ends because they worked as well but were cheaper and simpler to make. Rebuild kits are still available for the PV front ends, try www.GCP.se, also I see them go by on eBay (English Quinton-Hazlet stuff) occasionally. The PV's front end is wonderfully precise with almost all metal bushings with no slop, and precise adjustments with the threaded and offcenter bushings.

I've seen entire other front crossmembers put in a PV before, but you'd really have to know what you are doing with the steering linkage - the angles and arm lengths are not amenable to tinkering. All in all I'd say leave the front end alone and rebuild it if worn.

B20's and M40's fit in fairly easily on B16 engined cars. I've only done the B18-to-B20 swap which is a 100% bolt in affair, but I don't think the B16 cars are too much harder. Issues would be the lower radiator hose (wrong side), 6 volt electrics vs. B20 12 volt starter/alternator, clutch linkage (I think they are not quite compatible with B18 544 bellhousings - and if your donor vehicle is a 122 or 144 it will not have the mechanical clutch linkage style bellhousing).

With the increased HP of the B20 in the light PV you will next feel the pain of the very low gearing - B16 engined PV's had 4.56:1 rear ends and you'll wince everytime you get on the freeway and over 65 mph unless you either lower the rear end ratio or fit an M41 OD tranny. But the OD tranny involves cutting and replacing the tranny tunnel to make room, not a trivial task.

Cornering is vintage 'heeling sailboat' scary unless you get some IPD swaybars, which then point out the failings of the skinny tall original tires.

PV's are great cars. I've owned many old Volvos's (140's, 1800's, and 120's) and my PV puts the biggest grin on my face for some reason.

I've heard/read about putting a Chevy S-10 rear end in 444/544? I know this might be sacriledge to some, but do you know anything about this? Maybe this would be a good idea with the B20/M40 in a 444 body?

I've seen a PV sitting on top of an I-H 4X4 chassis too, doesn't mean it was easy.

Nuts and bolts, owever, it probably wouldn't be a terribly hard thing to do. The axle just U-bolts to the diagonal forward arms. There is a panhard rod linkage. And a couple of spring perches. Someone with fabricating skills and a welder (and faith in their welding skills) could probably make something fit pretty easily. Not as easily, however, as on a Duett (PV Wagon) where you could just about bolt anything up to the leaf springs.

Get a custom driveshaft made and tinker with the parking and hydraulic brakes and call it a day.

Why do you want an S10 axle under there? There's nothing terribly wrong with he original axle other than the 4.56:1 ratio in conjunction with enough HP to actually go over 65 mph. Like all Volvo components it's understressed and can handle extra HP (like a souped up B20) with no problem.

>There's nothing terribly wrong with he original axle other than the 4.56:1 ratio

They are over built and don't break. There is no reason to change them.