Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 3/2009 120-130 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

Hi,
For those of us whose older 122 will not take readily a 1800 axel. There is a conversion to ford durm brakes with out the keyway. Does any one know the specifics of the conversion? The series of the Ford axel, years they were used and any other information would be appreciated. One more thing does anyone have a "long" manifold for dual webers for a b20?
Thanks
Trana
--
PTR ,740 t -145-122








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

There seems to be a Ford Ranger rear axle opportunity for 544 and 120 models, with the correct 5x4-1/2 inch lug pattern, flanged axles, 9-inch drums, and ratios from the low threes up to 4.10, that is readily narrowed 3 inches to an appropriate width for use with wider rims. See my contribution to the Apr 30 question by Bradley on engine conversions. You would have to have appropriate fittings and brackets welded onto the housing exterior. Gears inside remain undisturbed. This is not the John Parker system.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

John Parker at Vintage Performance Developments laid out a "kit" at one point to do this. You could contact them about it, or below is what he sent me at one point when I was considering the same thing. Hopefully this formats OK...


Vintage Performance Developments
527 Buckingham Ave.
Syracuse, New York 13210
Phone: 315 478 1229
Fax: 315 476 0576
e mail: jparker3@TWCNY.RR.com


Drum Brake and Axle Conversion, Volvo to Ford 3/14/98

Parts required:

From Ford Nine Inch Rear End, used or new --
Axle shafts
Outer ends of axle tube
Brake drums
Brake shoes
Wheel cylinders
Axles
Bearings
Backing plate
Adjuster and spring kit

Recommended new parts include sealed bearings, wheel cylinders, and brake shoes. The Ford drums can be reused if within specifications after turning and as long as they are the right size to begin with. Note that the Ford rear end comes with numerous different sizes of brake drums. Some are compatible with the Volvo wheels and brake system, others are not. I originally used 10 inch drums, 1.75 inch wide, which results in a swept area of 55 sq. inches, almost exactly the same as the stock brake area. Two inch drums and shoes can also be used. Either combination works well with the standard Volvo brake relief cylinder which equalizes pressure between the front and rear.

Operations required:
1)Remove the Volvo rear end from the car
2)Remove drums, wheel cylinders, backing plates
3)Remove axles from both rear ends
4)Have Ford axles checked, cut to length, turned to correct spline diameter
and resplined to fit gear cluster splines. This is an opportunity to
change to the later differential spline where parts such as limited slip
differentials are more readily available
5)Remove differential from Volvo rear or block off axle tubes to prevent
contamination
6)Remove bearings from Ford rear end if they are to be reused
7)Cut outer section from Volvo rear end tubes
8)Cut outer section from Ford Nine Inch rear end
9)Weld Ford outer rear end section to Volvo axle tube. The Ford tube is a
slip fit over most Volvo axles. The end must be parallel and have the
correct spacing for the track desired. These measurements are crucial
and must be accurate for acceptable results. A jig should be used for
welding. For racing a small amount of negative camber can be dialed in at
this point.
10)Install bearings and axles
11)Install backing plate
12)Install wheel cylinders, brake shoes, adjusters, drums



- Price of conversions below, except the kit, do not include cost of the Ford
rear end, to be supplied by customer, or by us at an estimated cost of
$100 - $250 depending on availability. Price of complete
conversion with both rear ends supplied by customer, including labor,
new bearings, turned used drums, new brake shoes and wheel
cylinders: $500

- As above with new brake drums $575

- Price of kit of parts including splined Ford axles, Ford bearings,
backing plates, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, turned used drums, Ford
Nine Inch rear end outer section cut to length, and complete
instructions. Note that these kit prices vary based on the cost and
availability of the donor Ford parts: $450

- Kit as above with new brake drums $525

- OEM Type Limited slip differential when purchased with conversion
(Installation and setup not included) $550


Please allow several weeks for delivery as kits are made up to your custom order.



--
Justin 66 122E, 71 145S
Read vclassics!








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

Trana - there is a conversion, yes. However, it involves using modified Ford halfshafts and axle tubes which are then adapted to the Volvo differential. Essentially, you end up with a Volvo exterior with Ford internal parts. Expect to spend $1500 to complete the swap.

This setup is considered superior to the Volvo drums as it allows you to be rid of the tapered halfshafts Volvo used, which were known to break under hard use. Volvo offered harder/stronger halfshafts to remedy this, but didn't change the part number - so finding them or identifying them is near impossible.

Shayne at ipd is working on torque rods and trailing arms that will allow a later axle to bolt into an earlier sedan without modifications - this would allow an 1800E axle to easily fit a '66 or prior 122 or 1800 model.

Long manifolds made by Misab, which are very similar to the Volvo Competition Service manifolds, are available through Unitek in Sweden.

I wouldn't expect an improvement in braking ability, but I changed my rear axle to be done with the tapered halfshafts. I don't race the car, but I have increased the horsepower output of the engine substantially...

Best,

Cameron
Rose City








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

$1500 does sound like alot to retain drum brakes.I'm hoping to keep my kits near or under $1000.The cool thing is unlike the torques and trails to bolt disc rear ends into earlier cars,(which doesn't work in 220's) my kits will! You get to keep your bolt pattern also! Stay tuned.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

Cam,

You sure were up late. You have disks in the rear of your 122, yes? After looking further at the '67 rear I have, I realized that was a real hole in the head. Yes it has later trailing arm pickups but the same 10 spline tapered axle shaft. So anyway, I think I'm going to give in and get a 1800E/ES rear and have the rear rotors redrilled for the early bolt pattern. Anyway, isn't there an issue with E-brake cables? And for that matter, is the braking adequate on the rear disks with the dual circuit master cylinder? I don't know how stroke, bore, and all that fit into the actual pressure applied to the shoes (or pads).
--
Justin 66 122E, 71 145S
Read vclassics!








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

Naw, I wasn't up too late - I think the brickboard clock is on Eastern time or something. I was enjoying a lovely burrito and a lovely Guinness and poking at the keyboard.

I have an 1800E rear axle with limited slip. I like it a bunch! If I were to do it over again, I'd _definately_ have the rear bolt pattern altered to match the front. I did it the other way around.

To get the e-brake working, you'll need cables from the 1800. Minor modification to adapt the new cables to the 122. I haven't done it yet though... it's on the list.

I don't know the science behind hydraulics well enough to know if the bias is 'right' or not... or any of that other smartness stuff. What I do know is that the fronts lock up just a hair earlier than the rears (which is what I want) and that I have no trouble at all getting all 4 wheels to lock if I stomp on the pedal (which is also what I want).

Fun stuff, these old Volvos. Yeah.

Cameron
Rose City








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

Forgot to ask.Whats the ford drum swap going for price wise?








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

I'm not sure why you would want Ford drum brakes. If you're going to have
drumbs I'd think Volvo would be just as good and a lot easier on subsequent
folks who will have to work on them. Far as that goes, the only reason to
get 1800 axles would be to get DISK brakes.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

Don't you also get rid of the tapered axle?
And parts are more readily available.
I am interested too. I haven't come across the right rear end from a 1800.
shane








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

All the Fords that I have worked on had tapered axles pretty similar to the
Volvo setup. I think they used them at least through 1948, maybe up through 53.
(My pickup was a '40 with a '38 chopped and channeled body - some kinda ugly.)
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Ford drum brakes 120-130

Patience!! I'm working on it.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.