Hi all -

My wifemobile (1988 244GL) has a sort of extra seal on the upper half of each door. The parts guys at the dealer told me that (1) it's to cut down on wind noise and (2) it cannot be retro fitted to earlier model 240s.

Well, I managed to get a set from a recycle yard, and I want to install them on my 1986 244GL. I have some 1/2 inch wide foambacked double stick tape which should fit OK even though I think Volvo uses 12mm wide. The tape is from Ace Hardware, should I find some that's made for automotive exterior use?

My main question is this: What should I used to get the area where the tape will be stuck on to be really super-duper clean? Denatured alcohol? 409? Simple Green? 000 steel wool? Your contributions will be welcomed.

Thanks in Advance,

Bob

:>)

Forgive me, but, why (and how) would you get your auto to +600 mph???

Duane

Actually, Duane, the seals are critical once the altitude where the super sonic speed is 600mph+. Getting up to that speed is not difficult if, beginning at a high enough altitude, one goes into a very steep dive. Next problem is, of course, the control mechanism to use when the dive trajectory strays from the targetted large body of water - i.e. Galveston Bay. Should make rather a sonic splash, as opposed to a sonic boom, don't you think?

Been a long day.

Regards,

Bob

:>)

Strap JATO pods to the brick, just like they did to the Impala in that old "urban legend", that oughta get it to at least 600. But then, ya gotta find somebody crazy enough to drive it and find out!!!

Is this additional seal present on every later model, or was it some kind of option? If an option, can you post a picture? Thanks.

Sorry but I canna do a picture, yet. The wifemobile is a 1988, has seals. I have a 1987 parts car, no seals.

The seals are like a rubber tube, maybe 0.625" outside diameter. They are not round, the cross-section is a "D" shape. The flat side of the "D" goes onto the painted surface. The "D" side is not smooth rubber. It has like a short napp fuzzy surface so it will slide into place as the door closes.

Stand as you do when getting out of the car and look at the top edge of the door. Rubber seal on the right or inside side, then a flat painted space, then the trim piece that outlines the window. The sound barrier thing glues onto that flat space. It runs in that space from just above the door latch, up and across the top, then down below the O/S mirror to just below the belt line.

If you see a 240 with rear headrests, it will have them. Get a look.

Good Luck,

Bob

:>)

Bob,

OK, you said they start just up from the "door latch", did you mean "door hinge"? How long are they? Not trying to be a PITA, just trying to visualize them. I might look for something like this in bulk next time I'm by the uppholstery supply as they have all kinds of weatherstrip, and stuff, in bulk... My 57 Chevy has a secondary rubber seal on the front doors just about in the same spot I think you are describing...

Justin B.
83 Turbo

Hi Justin -

The seals are on just the upper part of the door. The top part, window frame, is welded onto the main part. The seals run up and over and down just on the window frame part; beginning and ending at the welds. I was trying to describe the start end end points.

The seals have corners that are shaped to fit the door, just as do the main seals. That could present a problem with using just a length of material, but there is probably a way to get around that. Maybe miter the corners and glue the edges of the cut tubing with super-duper glue/sealant??

Wife's car is a lot quieter, just needs the sunroof adjusted to get things nice. I am putting in better rear speakers and an amp for her.

Well, I really need to learn to put pictures in here.

Good Luck with the project. Have you a low cost source for JATO pods? Carswell AFB's junk yard?

Long day, mind wandering.

Regards,

Bob

:>)

Oh, I understand, now... Tis a long bugger, I'll need to find some to look at next time I'm at the junkyard...

As far as JATO pods are concerned, it's amazing what comes up for bid at PDO auctions sometimes, you never know!

Justin

Thats not what i have at all. All i have is a chinsy piece of rubber, sorry about saying mine has those, but now i want them (lol). sounds neat! Let us know how they work.
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Kevin * HONDA spanking,1985 240DL * VOLVO ON!!!!

I understand it was standard but I'm not sure which year it began...

I have noticed that my 1990 is quieter than the early models. There might be more sound insulation in other places too.

I retrofitted these to my '83 - they fit fine. I used some 0.5" double-sided tape as well. I just used dish soap & water on a paper towel, cleaned it up really good, wiped with a damp towel, then a dry one. They've been on for about 9 months now, and they even stayed fast through this awful New England winter when my doors froze shut a couple of times.
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Speed Racer, '83 240 R, '74 164 E, '93 940 OL1 (Manchester, CT)

Lacker thinner, as this will remove any wax/oil/and grime. My 85 has those on it so i dont understand why they said you cant. 3m double side molding tape. If you use steelwool you will scuff it or if you use any of the cleaners you mentioned, the doubleside tape will NOT hold. Thinner wipe on and rub in let dry use the out side of a sock or a t-shirt, so no lint is on surface this will leave a lint free surface for better adhesion. you know those stick on wind deflectors for the windows those use 3M doubleside tape and those stick like crazy.
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Kevin * HONDA spanking,1985 240DL * VOLVO ON!!!!

Thanks for the good answer.

The list of things to try was just made up - I haven't asked anyone except this BBRD, because I figured others wouldn't have a clue as to what I want to know.

Lacquer thinner (odd spelling, right?) is something I thought of earlier, but was afraid that it could damage the paint itself.

Between your response and the others, I know now that the stick-on will hold even in tough weather. I had a hard time peeling the seals off the junker. The glue was strong and the rubber tried to rip.

Thanks again.

Regards,

Bob

:>)

thinner wont hurt paint at all, as every dealer ship and body shop use this to clean tar and tree sap and such from the paint on cars , it is also mixed in the paint to paint with. As far as where i learned it . It was a VOLVO dealer bodyshop . When you pay to have pintstriping put on at a bodyshop they use thinner to remove the wax so the pint stripe sticks . as far as spelling goes at least i know how to put things that stick on my car properly. As i will no longer reply to your posts that have any thing to do with the aplication or apperence of your auto . Its time to grow up. --
Kevin * HONDA spanking,1985 240DL * VOLVO ON!!!!

Hi -

Your girlfriend is correct. I meant only that, if you are interested, there is another way to spell lacker thinner. That specific word is an oddity. Originally that product - lacquer - was made from an asian beetle named a lac. Now wait and see if another BBRDer blows me out of the water on that one!

Actually your way is phonetically the same as lacquer, and a lot easier to remember. If you are interested, I am glad to help out. If not, I won't mention anything unless I just can't make head or tail of your words. OK?

Thanks for the info about using the stuff, if I can find enough of the mounting tape the seals go on this weekend. When I learn to make pictures that will go into the computer, I'll send you a pic of the job.

Regards,

Bob

:>)

An alternate theory.

(The techniques for using the sap of the lacquer tree and processing it for use in lacquerware arts developed in Japan, China, Korea, and Southeast Asia. Aof these countries the lacquer of were is renowned. Dried lacquerware has great adhesive strength, is rot and water resistant, and can be used with many types of base materials such as wood, bamboo and paper....)

For all I know a lacquer tree is any tree that has been eaten by a lacquer beetle.

Ah, but we diversify.

Thats cool but as a detailer, i rite recepts with product names the thinner, i use is made by a co. called (Lacker)lacker thinner. Another co. called (Cleen) makes the carpet cleaner i use cleen carpet cleaner. So i was stating (Lacker thinner) as a brand, so when you see that. Its just the way i do it, Kinda type thing./ The pics i can do ,but i would never make fun of some one who can't. Is what i don't know how to do. Is post like in rows like (1) and than what im saying, and skip a few rows down and than (2) and so on and so on . Every time i do it , it gets cramed together and stuff . So im saying why make fun of some one who cant do one thing, cause that person can do other things. See what im getting at. Im not trying to fight or any thing but, untill you learn how to put a picture up. It's the same as me, only i have to learn how to post in a better manner. See what im getting at, eventually we will both learn what we need to do. This is why i kinda lash out quickly . I would never make fun of some one. Who dont know how to post a pic or do any thing i can ,just because i can do it, and they cant. Instead i would offer help or try to explain how to do, with any thing. well any ways ,later and hope you understand what i mean. and GOOD LUCK with the project hope it works out ok . I will be waiting for those PICS
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Kevin * HONDA spanking,1985 240DL * VOLVO ON!!!!

Just curious, is the "Lacker" brand of thinner that you use as a cleaning solvent actually "lacquer" thinner or is it another type of paint thinner? I also use lacquer thinner for a lot of cleaning jobs but if it is left on a painted or plastic surface very long it will damage it. That makes me wonder if maybe what "Lacker" is bottling up in their thinner can might be mineral spirits, or something similar, which is a paint thinner.

While we are talking about uses for lacquer thinners, I have found they seem to do a good job for me on spark plug wires and other under-hood stuff like that. Just a dampened rag, not sopping wet. I also wipe down, with a slightly dampened rag, vinyl panels before I use spray dye on them, seems to help the dye soak in and stick better...

Enough of my rambling as I probably ain't making any sense anyway...

Justin B.

It is a lacquer thinner, it has less oil resido? that blueish streak that thinner has that looks like oil.It will melt the sht out of plastic. i have never had any problem with any thinner on paint , one time i had to remove roofing tar from a dodge truck, the tar was 1/16 inch and compleatly covered the truck. thinner is all i used did not hurt the paint at all . Engine compartments i use kerosine, thats wright as the thinner harms the plastic and rubber stuff. the kerosine you can spray it on as much as you like. It is a cleaner and you can even clean the paint with kerosine as this was used in the 1940s till now, and i even know a VOLVO dealer that uses kerosine still . Before i dye rugs, i spray with thinner ,I use thinner to prep all things i paint,wiper arms bumpers,you know what i mean . I dont paint plastic interior panels as i know how to bring the coler back with heat. Other than the rugs/dye i dont use thinner on interiors as customers dont like the smell. some times when there not looking i do. (LOL)PS. there is a lot of flat black paint and rubber and plastic in engine bay and thinner is bad on that . I use WD-40) on a lot of engine bay stuff as this is a cleaner , i also use trans fluid as this is a cleaner it depends on what im cleaning to what i use.
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Kevin * HONDA spanking,1985 240DL * VOLVO ON!!!!

Interesting points and suggestions you made, I'll keep them in mind. I might try the kerosene thing on the bottom of the engine on the old Mercedes I've gotten stuck with...

As far as lacquer thinner and paint is concerned, you're correct that a just dampened rag, constantly moving over the surface, usually won't harm the finish. But, if the rag is too wet, or the thinner is allowed to remain on a spot too long there is a chance of softening the paint.

Good luck,

Justin B.

P.S. Wife just came in and said the hail got the Brick last night so I guess I know how I'll be spending the summer... >:-|