My dad's '81 244DL has an issue with starting when it is warm... when the car is cold it will start no problem and run great. but if you stop somewhere and then want to restart it.. the engine will just crank and not turn over. if you let it sit for like 10 minutes or so then it will start just fine... you guys have any ideas??? its a manual tranny if that helps at all.

1985 245 dl non turbo

I just went through the same thing. There can be two situations, no fuel and excess fuel. Mine was the latter, when I shut off the warmed engine I could smell gas, and a good bit of cranking would start the engine(flooded).I had the injectors tested and found two to be leaking through which was dumping raw fuel into the cylinders after the engine was shut off. If it is a no fuel situation the pump check valve is a good bet if not have the injectors checked.

Bob

i think i got he same problem in my n/a 1985 245 dl. Are the injector leaking throuthe littel rubber orings or do i gotta shell out another $40 a pop to replace each one? TIY
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Dan D. '85 245 DL , '93 945 .Delanisdjd@aol.com

You seem to be talking about two separate problems.

A leaking injector will leak fuel from the tip and may result in rich running or a flooded engine. I believe it's about $20/injector to rebuild and balance them versus about $70/injector for new unbalanced injectors.

Leaking o-rings will allow excess air into the combustion chamber, and on a car with non-adaptive fuel control (like a 240) will result in a lean situation. The o-rings are cheap. Less than $2/injector for the required bits and pieces I believe.

- alex

'85 244 Turbo
'84 245 Turbo

check valve is on the outlet side of your pump wich in that year range could have two different style pumps and check valves need to see if it is a side discharge or a end disscharge

fuel pump check valve, your losing rest pressure, do you have a fuel pressure guage?

nope, i dont have a fuel pressure guage. where should i look for that check valve?? or does the fuel pump just need to be replaced alltogether?

no the check valve is available seperately. do you have any local parts houses that sell bosch parts. if they dont have it, they can order it. be very careful removing the short hard plastic line between the accumulator and the pump, if you damage it, just buff it off and replace with good quality high pressure fuel hose and clamps.

Just to make sure im on the same track.. we are talking about the fuel pump that is under the car.. not in tank right?? and where is this check valve in relation to it?

Just to clarify, there is no actual check valve per-se on your car.

On a LH-Jetronic car there is a check valve right after the main pump, and a fuel pressure regulator (and on some LH cars, probably no Volvos, there is a separate damper). The check valve retains pressure when the pumps are turned off. The fuel pressure regulator controls how much fuel is injected for a specific pulse width (and also acts the part of the damper to some extent). The damper smooths out the flow of the fuel.

On a K-Jetronic equipped car there equivalent parts are the fuel accumulator and control pressure regulator. The accumulator acts as a damper, and has a small spring loaded cylinder designed to retain some pressurized fuel to make re-starting easier. The control pressure regulator is a mechanical (or electronic on KE-Jetronic/CIS-E equipped cars) device that regulates the control pressure to the fuel distributor (which thus controls how much fuel gets to the injectors). In theory the accumulator isn't much different from that check valve. In practice the two cent check valve is now an $80 accumulator. IIRC there are also "proper" check valves in the fuel distributor, main, and transfer fuel pumps. I believe the distributor check valve can be replaced, but the fuel pump ones cannot be replaced independantly of the pump.

1. Inlet
2. Outlet
3. Accumulator housing


4. Diaphragm
5. Stop
6. Spring

The check valve under the car mounted on the fuel pump will not cause this problem. My check valve was bad for two years and all it took to start it(either hot or cold) was just an unusual bunch of cranking-- like ten seconds, because there was no residual pressure in the fuel rail until the main fuel pump raised the pressure to about 40 psi.

If black smoke pours out when it starts, then look for leaky injectors.

Bob

the check valve is located on the fuel pump itself, it threads into the pump and has a banjo fitting to connect it to the accumulator. But unlike what the previous people said, on a k jetronic car rest pressure is essential. the system works much differently than a lh car and when you lose pressure it takes quite a while to fill the lines back up. this is a very common problem specific to k jetronic cars. on a lh car if your check valve is bad because the injectors are not mechanical and it works under much less pressure the car will start with a bad check valve.